If you are saying you have 12v on the brass roller. That shouldn't be hot. The horn button completes circuit by making ground. It's gonna be something simple I can relate to the frustration though.Also I tested the brass horn stud on the turn signal assembly and am getting 12v constantly. The steering column is properly grounded. Still at a loss here for what going on. The horn button plate on the steering wheel is fairly new. I got it new when I ordered the wood steering wheel a few years ago. Also the copper ring on the neck of the steering wheel looks good. I checked the rubber between the copper and the wheel and it looked good. I should have known better to re-wire this car myself, here we go with all the little issues.
The switch is on top of the wheel and nothing is pushing down on it when installing the wheel.If the horn blows when you fit the s/wheel, then it sounds like the wheel is pushing on the switch, which is sounding the horn.
Also I tested the brass horn stud on the turn signal assembly and am getting 12v constantly. The steering column is properly grounded. Still at a loss here for what going on. The horn button plate on the steering wheel is fairly new. I got it new when I ordered the wood steering wheel a few years ago. Also the copper ring on the neck of the steering wheel looks good. I checked the rubber between the copper and the wheel and it looked good. I should have known better to re-wire this car myself, here we go with all the little issues.
I would first put an ohm meter on the brass ring and steel splined area and see if it’s actually making contact.
I’m not sure where to buy a new one of those insulators. I had one I stole off of an old steering wheel.
Also if you do change it be sure to mark where that signal canceling rod is and put it back the same or your canceling will not work right.
No it’s a thin plastic insulator on the steering wheel itself. I don’t have a picture.