What about tabs on the arms?
66 Coronet 500 Driver, Light Resto
- Thread starter Nxcoupe
- Start date
Take 1/4" angle iron and cut 2 1" sections, drill holes in each side, either bolt or weld to the control arm.
I have a pair of Helwig brackets that bolt to the lower shock mount if you want them. They came with the kit, and my car had the ears on the control arms so I didn't use them.
If I go the do it yourself route, I will reach out, thank you!
Should be picking up the camber bolts in the morning. Work got in the way today, lol. Then went to see Brad Pitt in F1, highly recommend. I got notice from USPS that my lower bushing pins will be here Saturday. Remember it's USPS, I trust that as much as I trust Hunter Biden to not cheat at poker.
My goal for this weekend is to get the front end done and back together, and stainless brake lines going on. Anything more than that is a bonus.
My goal for this weekend is to get the front end done and back together, and stainless brake lines going on. Anything more than that is a bonus.
Been a minute since I was able to update this thread. Got some good progress, but fell slightly short of the goal. It was just so humid out in the shop and I'm just worn out.
I didn't snap a lot of pictures, but the driver's side is pretty much together. I just need to tighten the strut rod nut to squish the bushings.
I didn't snap a lot of pictures, but the driver's side is pretty much together. I just need to tighten the strut rod nut to squish the bushings.
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I realized I made a mistake when it was a pain to get the lower control arm nut started and a wrench on it. I did it differently on the passenger side.
I grabbed one if the rotors out of the box after cerifying it was the left side rotor. I packed the bearings by hand. Back story to that is the bearing packer I've had since the 80s, a lisle unit, has a large crack from the center outward, so in the trash it went. It was sad, as I've used that thing for years. Anyway, I ordered a newfangled lisle one and I'll give that a try for the passenger side.
I got the inner bearing and then the seal in. I put the rotor onto the spindle and adjusted the nut and put the lock and cotter pin in. I bought an iron pipe fitting to put over the dust cap and pound it on without denting it.
I got the nut and washer on that came with the new lower control arm pins. The new ones use locking nuts and the old ones used castlenuts and cotter pins.
I got the inner bearing and then the seal in. I put the rotor onto the spindle and adjusted the nut and put the lock and cotter pin in. I bought an iron pipe fitting to put over the dust cap and pound it on without denting it.
I got the nut and washer on that came with the new lower control arm pins. The new ones use locking nuts and the old ones used castlenuts and cotter pins.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
In the near future, I'll be working on the wagon doing that stuff plus more. So looking forward to it. I'll take the opportunity to FINALLY update my t-bar removal vid. Use the wagon as my show piece plus add some of the other work on.
Next step is the passenger side suspension. I got the drum off and noticed something wierd with it. The front edge of the lower control arm was rubbing the kmember. I went to remove the torsion bar retainer clip, and the torsion bar was about 1.5" forward in the crossmember. I guess I really sinched it down on the trailer, lol.
I'll be following along.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Whenever I drive the wagon, there is a fair amount of popping, creaking etc. Its going to be interesting what I find during the changes.
I hit another parts wall. I was installing the grease seal on the new rotor and I fubar'd it. So out it came and replacement is in tomorrow, along with both rear wheel cylinders, along with rear brake hose. It never ends. I did get the suspension rebuild done, strut rods installed and tightened, and caliper bracket installed onto the passenger side spindle.
Since I was waiting on parts, I decided to start replacing brake lines. I got the ones installed on the rear housing and the one that runs down the framerail to the metering block. Everything fit pretty well, and my tubing straightener tool worked geeat!
I cannot remember if I did the rear brakes on this. I don't think I touched them, but they have new shoes and one new part, the self adjuster cable. The drums are even new. I am going to swap wheel cylinders so that way my entire system will be new and I can use DOT5 fluid. I may change my mind but not rusting brake parts sounds good to me.
I've had synthetic in my Charger for 25 years or more.
No issues with anything.
No issues with anything.
Looking at those shoes in the picture, it almost looks like they weren't hitting the drum? Wondering if the wheel cylinder was frozen?
I received wheel cylinders, rear brake hose, and replacement front grease seal. I scrounged around and found a T5 output shaft bearing race that just squeezes over the seal and I will use that to tap it into place and then the rotor can finally go on.
I installed the rear brake hose too, got the rear end junction block fitting tightened up, then got the hose started onto the brake line and pushed into the bracket. Next is the retaining clip and tighten the fitting and that is done.
I should have stayed home and worked on this, but instead I finally took my 1320 to KilKare, the local dragstrip and made some passes. Frustrated with the overcomplicated line lock as I was not able to get it to work. I went a best of 12.4@110, almost 111. It was hot but the car hooked and went. Not bad for first time out.
I installed the rear brake hose too, got the rear end junction block fitting tightened up, then got the hose started onto the brake line and pushed into the bracket. Next is the retaining clip and tighten the fitting and that is done.
I should have stayed home and worked on this, but instead I finally took my 1320 to KilKare, the local dragstrip and made some passes. Frustrated with the overcomplicated line lock as I was not able to get it to work. I went a best of 12.4@110, almost 111. It was hot but the car hooked and went. Not bad for first time out.
Today I made big progress, finally. I replaced the wheel cylinders, tightened all the fittings in the rear and got the drums back on. Did I mention it was 100* with 70% humidity? I moved up front and installed the grease seal using my bearing race and it worked great. I got the rotor on and had to grind about .080" off the bottom lip of the dust cap and it went on flush. The new ones they sell won't go flush unless you grind it off some. I got that on and moved to putting pads and calipers on. Here's where I dropped face first into the suck.
The rotors are thicker than stock and the pads are thicker than stock, typical if the current chinesium rotors and pads. I used 80 grit and then 60 grit airfile paper to lay on a 2x4 and slid the pads back and forth until finally, the skies parted, the angels sang and the darn thing went on. I looked up the 73/4 repair manual and figired out what the Orings in the hardware kit go to, and how the retainers and anti rattle clips went on. The rotor spun and everything looked good. Having learned my lesson, I grabbed my calipers and measured the pad thickness and then went on sanding until I took .020" off each pad. It slid right on. Thank God something went my way today. There were a lot more things that just planted me face first, but I'll spare you the details. Suffice it to say that I did 2 hours worth of work in 6 hours. One thing after another. It sucked.
Got both front rotors and calipers on, hoses into the brackets, and retainer clips installed. I grabbed the metering block(after searching for it fo 30 minutes, it was in the trunk with the rest of the lines), and figured out which holes it went into and what orientation it needed to fit. Sat down with the lines and figured it out. Mounted it to the frame rail and got the driver's caliper line attached to the metering block tightened into the hose. Got the line to the rear tightened into the metering block too. Can't wait to get this finished. Going to use Dot5 in the system. It's really taking shape now. I can see light at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train, this time.
The rotors are thicker than stock and the pads are thicker than stock, typical if the current chinesium rotors and pads. I used 80 grit and then 60 grit airfile paper to lay on a 2x4 and slid the pads back and forth until finally, the skies parted, the angels sang and the darn thing went on. I looked up the 73/4 repair manual and figired out what the Orings in the hardware kit go to, and how the retainers and anti rattle clips went on. The rotor spun and everything looked good. Having learned my lesson, I grabbed my calipers and measured the pad thickness and then went on sanding until I took .020" off each pad. It slid right on. Thank God something went my way today. There were a lot more things that just planted me face first, but I'll spare you the details. Suffice it to say that I did 2 hours worth of work in 6 hours. One thing after another. It sucked.
Got both front rotors and calipers on, hoses into the brackets, and retainer clips installed. I grabbed the metering block(after searching for it fo 30 minutes, it was in the trunk with the rest of the lines), and figured out which holes it went into and what orientation it needed to fit. Sat down with the lines and figured it out. Mounted it to the frame rail and got the driver's caliper line attached to the metering block tightened into the hose. Got the line to the rear tightened into the metering block too. Can't wait to get this finished. Going to use Dot5 in the system. It's really taking shape now. I can see light at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train, this time.
Oh, and I tried on one of my 66 and earlier wheels and it fit! Woot!
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