What about tabs on the arms?
66 Coronet 500 Driver, Light Resto
- Thread starter Nxcoupe
- Start date
Take 1/4" angle iron and cut 2 1" sections, drill holes in each side, either bolt or weld to the control arm.
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I have a pair of Helwig brackets that bolt to the lower shock mount if you want them. They came with the kit, and my car had the ears on the control arms so I didn't use them.
If I go the do it yourself route, I will reach out, thank you!
Should be picking up the camber bolts in the morning. Work got in the way today, lol. Then went to see Brad Pitt in F1, highly recommend. I got notice from USPS that my lower bushing pins will be here Saturday. Remember it's USPS, I trust that as much as I trust Hunter Biden to not cheat at poker.
My goal for this weekend is to get the front end done and back together, and stainless brake lines going on. Anything more than that is a bonus.
My goal for this weekend is to get the front end done and back together, and stainless brake lines going on. Anything more than that is a bonus.
Been a minute since I was able to update this thread. Got some good progress, but fell slightly short of the goal. It was just so humid out in the shop and I'm just worn out.
I didn't snap a lot of pictures, but the driver's side is pretty much together. I just need to tighten the strut rod nut to squish the bushings.
I didn't snap a lot of pictures, but the driver's side is pretty much together. I just need to tighten the strut rod nut to squish the bushings.
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I realized I made a mistake when it was a pain to get the lower control arm nut started and a wrench on it. I did it differently on the passenger side.
I grabbed one if the rotors out of the box after cerifying it was the left side rotor. I packed the bearings by hand. Back story to that is the bearing packer I've had since the 80s, a lisle unit, has a large crack from the center outward, so in the trash it went. It was sad, as I've used that thing for years. Anyway, I ordered a newfangled lisle one and I'll give that a try for the passenger side.
I got the inner bearing and then the seal in. I put the rotor onto the spindle and adjusted the nut and put the lock and cotter pin in. I bought an iron pipe fitting to put over the dust cap and pound it on without denting it.
I got the nut and washer on that came with the new lower control arm pins. The new ones use locking nuts and the old ones used castlenuts and cotter pins.
I got the inner bearing and then the seal in. I put the rotor onto the spindle and adjusted the nut and put the lock and cotter pin in. I bought an iron pipe fitting to put over the dust cap and pound it on without denting it.
I got the nut and washer on that came with the new lower control arm pins. The new ones use locking nuts and the old ones used castlenuts and cotter pins.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
In the near future, I'll be working on the wagon doing that stuff plus more. So looking forward to it. I'll take the opportunity to FINALLY update my t-bar removal vid. Use the wagon as my show piece plus add some of the other work on.
Next step is the passenger side suspension. I got the drum off and noticed something wierd with it. The front edge of the lower control arm was rubbing the kmember. I went to remove the torsion bar retainer clip, and the torsion bar was about 1.5" forward in the crossmember. I guess I really sinched it down on the trailer, lol.
I'll be following along.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Whenever I drive the wagon, there is a fair amount of popping, creaking etc. Its going to be interesting what I find during the changes.
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