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Rear Flat Tire Change Roadside Tips

68 Sport Satellite

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I"ve owned my 1968 Plymouth Satellite since 2010. It's the first rear leaf spring car I've owned. No stranger to changing flat tires, but have not had to change one yet on the rear of the car. I have removed the rear wheels a few times in my driveway and usually use a floor jack under the rear end pumpkin, then insert jack stands under the rear frame rails, lower the car weight onto the jack stands, and remove the floor jack so the leaf springs can hang down and allow removal of the 275/60/15 rear tires/wheels. If I was roadside with an unexpected flat, I likely would not be carrying jack stands. Then there's the fact that these cars are unibody and maybe not as rigid if jacking up from one side.

Any tips or advice on rear tire changes from those who have done it? I know the easiest solution is probably to use a tire repair plug, but what if the side wall blows out and it requires swapping to the spare tire in the trunk? This might seem like an obvious question, but I thought I'd ask you all.
 
My car is not roadworthy yet, but I've been thinking about the same problem. I think the answer for
me is to buy a scissors jack kit from a late model F 150 in the plastic case and use it at the front leaf
spring mount to raise the body enough to take the tire off. Just thinking!
 
I don't have the original bumper jack, but I've used one before on my old 67 chevy I used to have. If the foot is not dead square and maintained as such during the lift, that jack can slip and slide out. Had it happen once on uneven ground.
 
I changed a rear tire using a bumper jack on my '71 Satellite a long time ago. Never, ever again. Afterwards, I placed a bottle jack and a jack stand in my trunk. One box for tools and one box for fluids, a machete, rope, old clothes, a flashlight, a bottle jack, and a jack stand.

Of course, I never needed any of it. :rolleyes:
 
I carry a good scissors jack from one of my m bodies. They are quite sturdy and work well.
 
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I carry a scissor jack from an early-80's LeBaron. It ain't factory, but it has pentastar on it! Never had to use it on the roadside yet (thankfully).
 
I carry a good scissors jack from one of my m bodies. They are quite sturdy and wok well.
I agree.
I carried a small trolley type floor jack for years but then took a scissor jack from a 2004 Camry that I cut up and welded a small pad to it. It weighs 7 lbs and works fine. I used it at the Air Tel in 2024 when a low speed bump knocked my left tailpipe loose from the muffler.
For the Plymouth, you'd just set the jack on the frame rail just forward of the rear wheel and only lift high enough to remove the wheel and tire.
 
I agree.
I carried a small trolley type floor jack for years but then took a scissor jack from a 2004 Camry that I cut up and welded a small pad to it. It weighs 7 lbs and works fine. I used it at the Air Tel in 2024 when a low speed bump knocked my left tailpipe loose from the muffler.
For the Plymouth, you'd just set the jack on the frame rail just forward of the rear wheel and only lift high enough to remove the wheel and tire.
I know you've got a photo to share :)

On the Plymouth (unlike the Dodge B-bodies), the rear wheel lip is a lot lower and covers almost the entire sidewall to the wheel. That, combined with the taller 275/60/15 tires requires quite a bit of lift to remove the rear wheel/tire. I need to look into a nice scissor jack - however, I've used one before on a 90's toyota to change a flat front tire (roadside in the dark in the Philippines!) and it's really slow going cranking the car weight up with one of those. Maybe I didn't use proper technique...
 
I parted out a 2004 Camry and decided to repurpose the scissor jack. (Dwayne's Plymouth is in the background here)

S jack 1.JPG


I reinforced the pad....

S jack 15.JPG


Then using a rubber donut for a pad...

S jack 16.JPG


No scratches to the underside...

S jack 17.JPG


Now, I would not use this on any inclined surfaces for risk of the scissor framework folding over. In fact, I made an engine and transmission cart with a scissor jack...

IMG_1004.JPG


The jack on the cart wants to sway when pushing the cart. I think I should have clocked it 90 degrees to improve stability.
I'm a bit off topic but my point is...these scissor jacks can flex a bit and become unstable so you have to be aware of that and only use them where they lift as straight up as possible. Try to avoid lifting from a sloped surface.
 
I know you've got a photo to share :)

On the Plymouth (unlike the Dodge B-bodies), the rear wheel lip is a lot lower and covers almost the entire sidewall to the wheel. That, combined with the taller 275/60/15 tires requires quite a bit of lift to remove the rear wheel/tire. I need to look into a nice scissor jack - however, I've used one before on a 90's toyota to change a flat front tire (roadside in the dark in the Philippines!) and it's really slow going cranking the car weight up with one of those. Maybe I didn't use proper technique...
Bring a battery powered impact with a socket that will fit over the lifting nut
 
It’s not a foolproof plan but I carry a can of Slime flat tire repair and a battery powered air compressor in my old cars. If that isn’t up to the task then I will go to the Insurance road side plan and a flat bed tow. So far I’ve been towed several times for electronic lgnition failures but never for a flat tire.
 
Use a scissor jack that can be found from many, many cars in the wrecking yard. Put it under the shock plate if your tires are skinny enough, and under the front spring hanger if not. They are cheap, light, and much safer than the original bumper jack.
 
My hesitation to use the bumper jack is based on the cost to straighten an original bumper!
 
It’s not a foolproof plan but I carry a can of Slime flat tire repair and a battery powered air compressor in my old cars. If that isn’t up to the task then I will go to the Insurance road side plan and a flat bed tow. So far I’ve been towed several times for electronic lgnition failures but never for a flat tire.
Beware if you put slime or any of those type of products in your tires, the real fix at the tire shop may not hold. Case in point wife had a flat while I was away working. She didn’t want to bother me and put slime in it and aired it up. Well it kept going down. It ended up in the tire shop and he said he would patch it but it most likely won’t hold. Sure enough it never held and I had to replace a pretty nice tire.
 
I've heard from several friends who overland with their 90's Land Cruisers that most tire flats are repairable with the tire plug kit and that they last a long time. I've never used one, so I think I should get one and practice on an old tire.
 
I've heard from several friends who overland with their 90's Land Cruisers that most tire flats are repairable with the tire plug kit and that they last a long time. I've never used one, so I think I should get one and practice on an old tire.

If I could get you to drive this far, I could let you practice on tires I have here. I have a tire mounting machine and several junk tires.
For years I have plugged holes in my cars and trucks. Construction and nails goes together like fat chicks and a bucket of fried chicken.
I bought a tire plug kit about 30 years ago and have plenty of experience with it!
 
I don't have the original bumper jack, but I've used one before on my old 67 chevy I used to have. If the foot is not dead square and maintained as such during the lift, that jack can slip and slide out. Had it happen once on uneven ground.
Yes, there is always that problem. Personally never had that problem. Just be gentle and safety conscious.
 
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