One more piece left to do.
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1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......
- Thread starter Moparfiend
- Start date
Considering the cost of the door panels I decided to make them impervious to water damage. I sprayed the backside with Flex Seal spray. Then after it dried I glued a vapor barrier to the backside side.
Restored the grab handle bezel. New padded handle. I also tried using Velcro to attach the panel. Jury still out. I’ll probably use the clips on the other side.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
But you only get rain twice a year. ;)
True but I would like to wash the popsicle from time to time!
Temporary covers to protect the white pristine vinyl underneath while I work on the car. I think they’re perfect.
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JimKueneman
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Wow it’s hot driving a car like this on a day like this in AZ with no AC! It’s on the list but low priority. The interior is done and it’s time to focus on the drivetrain. Not sure I am physically up for it but then again I need to continue my PT anyhoo….
Flower Power!
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That’s one awesome car. You do awesome work as well. I love your car. Kim
The final two pieces of chrome. The rocker panels were pitted and beat up. I tapped out the dents. Then I dry sanded 120 grit and wet sanded 240, 320, 400, 600, 800 1000 and 1500 the buffed using white compound. Lots of work but a huge difference. These are chrome plated stainless steel. Going this far down in grit will definitely thin out the chrome plating. I was successful and don’t guarantee results.
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6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Love the physcedelic seat covers. I have some in my Roached Runner also since they are all ripped up, which is why I am getting your old covers from you. Thanks again for your gesture to donate.
Onto the chrome rocker panels. The problem is nobody makes the plastic clips for them. I purchased a set of NOS clips but they are for the GTX and ROADRUNNER. I didn’t realize there was a difference in trim width between the models. Apparently the sport satellite has a narrow rocker panel trim piece. That makes the clips incompatible.
So after searching around and not finding any clips, I decided to make my own. These pictures will speak for themselves, but they work, and I am in the process of fabricating what I need to mount both sides. Also, below is the plastic clips that are the wrong size. They’re just too big.
These clips work really well and can safely be removed and reinstalled as they are spring, loaded and made of steel. They won’t break off like the plastic factory ones.
So after searching around and not finding any clips, I decided to make my own. These pictures will speak for themselves, but they work, and I am in the process of fabricating what I need to mount both sides. Also, below is the plastic clips that are the wrong size. They’re just too big.
These clips work really well and can safely be removed and reinstalled as they are spring, loaded and made of steel. They won’t break off like the plastic factory ones.
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That is smart. good work.
Up next. The last interior parts….the visors. Wish me luck..0.062 Chipboard in white vinyl.
Moving along, waiting for my shipment of Weldwood cement.
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Waiting for my edging to go around the perimeter and the proper rubber ends.
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Hemirunner
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Curious as to why you’re commanding such low timing at 1200 rpm?
Part of having the capability of tuning timing on the fly allows the user to tune for what the car seems to want or doesn’t want at a given condition of RPM and vacuum/load along with all the other stuff like AFR, carb settings and load real time.
The first two columns bump the timing because thats just below idle or at idle. I idle at about 900 rpm. So the higher timing helps prevent the engine from dying at lower idle speeds. Big cam.
Then around 1200 RPM “tip in” we start the ramp. This lower setting evens out the transition from park to in gear which now has a smooth difference of about 100 RPM. I couldn’t do this with a standard distributor.
Then depending on load/vacuum we start to ramp the timing up. The reason peak timing isn’t like 34° is because of high compression and crap fuel I get some knock. So it’s detuned about 3°-4° From peak power.
I haven’t been able to spend much time at this because it’s 115° outside and I’m trying to finish up the restoration which I am 99.9% done now. So I look forward to spending more time tuning the timing map and tuning of the carb etc. I can say one thing this Progression Distributor is really a nice tool when you have a complex set up. Being able to tune for load is really cool but does take some time to really understand and get right.
If you have any suggestions, I’m certainly open to any ideas you may have.
Hemirunner
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I was wondering if it wasn’t a big cam situation and I’m assuming it’s still carbureted. Without knowing cam, converter and gear it’s tough to understand the logic. Looks as if you have it all under control. As to the 115 degrees out there…. No thanks! Lol
I don’t have ANYTHING under control lol…just dealing with it on a daily basis is all I can do until the good lord says it’s time to rest.
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