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Who wants brighter headlights?

I agree with properly adjusted headlights help with visibility. I'm lucky my friend who used to own my 67 Coronet, has a autoshop right down the road from my house. He has a system similar to this one in the Pic.
Screenshot_20250904_182922_DuckDuckGo.jpg

He never charges me small stuff like headlight adjustment on my classics. I usually bring them down to his shop on Friday at closing time with a twelve pack. But I also run my work trucks thru his shop for all repairs and general maintenance.
 
Kern Dog said:
Awhile back I found out that countries with LEFT hand drive cars have headlights with a different light pattern than countries with RIGHT hand drive cars.
Click to expand...

That is actually made with diff lenses side to side but not by aiming headlights. I guesss the diff aim procedure side to side could be made on the days headlights were “universal” for all cars being same pieces for both sides.
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
That is actually made with diff lenses side to side but not by aiming headlights. I guesss the diff aim procedure side to side could be made on the days headlights were “universal” for all cars being same pieces for both sides.
Click to expand...
I mentioned earlier that the patterns of the low beams were like this:

1757051818273.png


It was alike a half round with a raised right side. I want to get actual pictures of the light patterns on the plywood but I may have to wait until Sunday to get actual pictures since I'm busy the next couple nights.
 
Yes, I just noticed that after quote LOL.

That pattern should be about correct for RHT(LHR) cars. But I’m not sure if YEARS AGO, the sealed beams were being sold with this different pattern depending on the diff side of the road meant to be driven locally. I can’t recall for example diff options for the traditional sealed beams being sold to diff side of the road drive, being these universal for both sides drive (I forgot to say on the quote: SIDE OF THE ROAD LOL)

I will search a bit if for example I want to keep my stock sealed beams lighting being driven in UK there is some diff PN or code for those being for LHT… or if they were really universal or side specific back in the days

When I aimed my halogen sealed beams last time maybe 15-18 years ago I can’t recall some kind of pattern related to this when lighting up against the wall, but a practically round shape.

Could be cool some UK owner opinion on this.

(Sorry, this is a bit off topic)
 
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My experience with the OE incadescents and aftemarket halogens is that they have a high intensity centerlized, illuminated image.
One point I particularly like about the Holley retrobrights is their illumination pattern, it is a broader, well dispersed but not overpowering
image. Plus it is a wider lighting pattern, expanding the lighting coverage well to the sides. And finally their current drain is only about 25%
compared to the OE incadecsents and aftermarket halogens, so no wiring mods and/or relays are required...
But in the end the user has a wide choice of different options, so he can better achieve his expected results...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
Not following that math there, 25%? A full correct quad set of Retrobrights draws close to 12 amps on high beam. Which is about the same as, or a bit more than, the original OE tungsten-based sealed beams. Sealed beam Halogens drawing about 14 amps, and High wattage H4/H1 system will draw about 30 amps at 13.5 volts. The original 16ga headlight wiring and components could barely support the current draw of the stock lights. Too easy to install relays to insure full available voltage/current and that there is minimal current stress on the stock wiring, connectors, and components, no matter the light type.
 
Last edited:
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Not following that math there, 25%? A full correct quad set of Retrobrights draws close to 12 amps on high beam. Which is about the same as, or a bit more than, the original OE tungsten-based sealed beams. Sealed beam Halogens drawing about 14 amps, and High wattage H4/H1 system will draw about 30 amps at 13.5 volts. The original 16ga headlight wiring and components could barely support the current draw of the stock lights. Too easy to install relays to insure full available voltage/current and that there is minimal current stress on the stock wiring, connectors, and components, no matter the light type.
Click to expand...
So, your reply begs this question, on typical round 4 lamp systems with LED Hi/low bulbs, are the LED's operating in either/or mode, or is the Hi Led mode just adding another LED source? If the former, can they both be wired/energized for a "super" hi beam mode? Suspect heat/current might be that limiting factor. Current is solvable, heat is harder to solve but maybe not an issue if only used on say a steering wheel mounted bump/flash mode.
 
Sinitro said:
My experience with the OE incadescents and aftemarket halogens is that they have a high intensity centerlized, illuminated image.
One point I particularly like about the Holley retrobrights is their illumination pattern, it is a broader, well dispersed but not overpowering
image. Plus it is a wider lighting pattern, expanding the lighting coverage well to the sides. And finally their current drain is only about 25%
compared to the OE incadecsents and aftermarket halogens, so no wiring mods and/or relays are required...
But in the end the user has a wide choice of different options, so he can better achieve his expected results...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I would have considered the Holley lights if they weren't so dang expensive.
EIGHT hundred bucks for 4?

1757116291773.png
 
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Not following that math there, 25%? A full correct quad set of Retrobrights draws close to 12 amps on high beam. Which is about the same as, or a bit more than, the original OE tungsten-based sealed beams. Sealed beam Halogens drawing about 14 amps, and High wattage H4/H1 system will draw about 30 amps at 13.5 volts. The original 16ga headlight wiring and components could barely support the current draw of the stock lights. Too easy to install relays to insure full available voltage/current and that there is minimal current stress on the stock wiring, connectors, and components, no matter the light type.
Click to expand...
EZ to calculate...
My Holley retrobrights draw 1.5 amps in low beam and 2.2 amps in high beam, and in my configuration running in quad mode equals 6 amps in low beam and 9 amps in high beam.
A standard H4 halogen headlight bulb typically draws about 4.5 to 5.2 amps, equates to 18-21 amps in either low or high beam. Calculate 6 amps to 20 amps, equals 30% in low beam and 42% in high beam. However note actual current draw for a H4 halogen headlight bulb can vary slightly depending upon brand, bottom line is Holley retrobrights draw significantly less current than H4 halogens...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
Kern Dog said:
I would have considered the Holley lights if they weren't so dang expensive.
EIGHT hundred bucks for 4?

View attachment 1913139
Click to expand...
Yup...
They are pricey but shop around I found a stocking distributor who was open to negotiation...
Sold to me discounted, and no sales tax and shipping...

Just my $0.02.. :thumbsup:
 
I was hoping you didn’t take offense to that.
I was just being silly.
 
Kern Dog said:
I would have considered the Holley lights if they weren't so dang expensive.
EIGHT hundred bucks for 4?

View attachment 1913139
Click to expand...

Sinitro said:
Yup...
They are pricey but shop around I found a stocking distributor who was open to negotiation...
Sold to me discounted, and no sales tax and shipping...

Just my $0.02.. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
They are expensive I've converted three of my cars to retrobrights, one time classic industries had the lowest price right around $125 each. The other two times summit had the best price when applying coupon code and using summit bucks, got them for around $140 each.
Even then they are still expensive. But I look at it the same as any other modification. You can buy expensive TTI or Doug's headers, or find other brands that are cheaper but may take more work to install. In the end both accomplish the same thing just depends on how you want to get to the end result.
 
Kern Dog said:
EIGHT hundred bucks for 4?
Click to expand...

Could be worse...$685 for one. Two per car.
:rolleyes:

ROW is 'Rest Of World'...everyone except U.S. & Canada.

Screenshot_20250905_210045_Chrome~2.jpg


Better light pattern than the U.S. & Canada spec.
 
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Another point about upgrading your headlights..
Be sure to double-check the depth of the chosen headlight...
Some are quite deep and then this now requires some metal work on the mounting bucket...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
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