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Distributor-stay with points or go electronic?

Mine is and will stay points. I stocked up on NOS parts , Just because I could last year

I can fix it on the side of the road with a simple screwdriver and set the gap by eye to get me home
I have a spare set of points and a condenser in the glovebox
Tools in my travel bag in the trunk when longer distance trips.

Anything close to home, I'll call Hagerty towing IF I need to. ( knocks on wood )
 
I have a rebuilt 318 poly with a 2 barrel.
MSD ready to run with an MSD coil.
Electronic voltage regulator.

Runs fantastic.

For my 58 Coronet I found it difficult to find the correct points and new ones that were not garbage. It still has points, no complaints.

It's akin to finding readily available 14" tires.

Although, I do prefer the MSD for efi and timing control.

View attachment 1912993
@HALIFAXHOPS can help you with those needed parts. Nice looking Poly!
 
You must be from Illinois. ADM, PPG, Cat or Mac's Tackle Box? Man could I go for a Krekel's cheeseburger right now!
YES...I did contact engineering for ADM-GLYCHOLS..... ..A KREKEL burger ANYTIME.....is the right time.....maybe with onion rings???.......perhaps the double burger ,with everything basket......yummy yum.....just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
 
If I go electronic does anything else change, like no coil, or should I stay with the old system of points. The old distributor is bad so reeds replacing now. Also had a bad thing happen, when the distubtor was out I dropped a small nut down the hole! Tried fishing with a magnet to no avail. Other suggestions? Looks like I will have all winter to get it going. UGH
The previous owner put in a Pertonix II distributor but still had the ballast resistor hooked up and had a stock coil. I bypassed the ballast and went with the pertonix coil. The car was running ok with the ballast resistor, but I was finding it was hard to start when the engine was hot. In reality, I think it was the resistor that was getting hot, so I followed the instructions with the Pertronix and by passed the resistor.
 
Points...

The only caveat is the quality of todays condensers. That can be overcome by using guitar amplifier capacitors( condensers by another name).
They can be very high quality andbcheap as dirt.
 
Points......more reliable, lower cost, perform like OEM, NO LOSS OF HORSEPOWER (contrary to popular misconception).......now the electronic ignition boys will come out of the woods quoting all kinds of euphemisms.......
BOB RENTON





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I agree 100%

The only vintage car with electronic ignition is my 76 Duster and it came that way from the factory.

When I dropped the '79 Super Six into my '72 Dart, I kept the points distributor and that was close to 40 years ago and it still has the '72 points distributor in it.

I did have to widen the slot for the timing adjustment, though, because the '79 six uses a larger retainer bolt, otherwise, it's run flawlessly all this time.

BTW, use Echlin points if you can find them. The cam follower is a fibrous tab that absorbs the cam follower lubricant and that prolongs the follower lifespan. The nylon followers just pile the lubricant up on the leading edge and the now dry follower wears down, thus, necessitating periodic dwell adjustment.
 
My two Volare station wagons went through their share of ignition modules in the close to (combined) 300,000 miles I put on them over the years. I lost an ignition module in my '79 Volare coupe as well.

They ain't cheap, either.

The "Lean Burn" in my '85 Grand Fury police package was an expensive nightmare as well.

It got so bad that I carried a spare all the time as these cars were my daily drivers.
 
Points...

The only caveat is the quality of todays condensers. That can be overcome by using guitar amplifier capacitors( condensers by another name).
They can be very high quality andbcheap as dirt.
Most, if not all automotive type condenser were of paper/oil film design. You could always substitute an axial lead electronic type condenser providing its voltage rating was 400 volts minimum. I've used 0.400 MFD to 0.600 MFD (Micro Farad) design...just make sure it's at least 400 volt rating. The condenser must be able to absorb the coil's collapsing primary voltage when the points open. It can be EXTERNALLY mounted...it does not need to fit in the distributor. Just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON
 
Points condensers are usually 0.25 micro farad, not higher. Using a larger [ mfd ] capacitor will result in an erosion hole being formed in the breaker arm point.....& a corresponding build up of metal on the fixed point. Timing will also change because the actual contact point has changed.
 
I run the stock Prestolite distributor triggering a 6AL. It will spin the Hemi to 7000rpm (rev limiter) no problem.
I use the stock Prestolite Dual point distributor (recurved to my specs, no vacuum advance), NOS MOPAR POINTS AND CONDENSER, in my Original 1970 6 barrel GTX RS23V0A****** to 6500 RPM without any problems.......with standard coil and ballast resistor.......
BOB RENTON
 
Well I must be the oddball as I run a Mallory dual point (with adjustable adv.) and a MSD 7AL -&- a Mallory coil ~ love'em or hate'em is what I've noticed with the electronic vs. dual point-
 
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