Doctor Diff Viper-Style 13" Front Disc Brake Kit
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JR_Charger
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I wonder why you're touching the frame rail behind the tire, and not in front?
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The chassis is clearly stock 1970 stuff. Stock strut rods, stock and original lower control arms though they have been gusseted.
Toe out in turns
JR_Charger
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Mine might hit in the back first too when the suspension's aligned.
Thanks for your contributions, KD. (Not being ironic)
I'd think we'd all be seeing the same thing - and we might, when everything is adjusted on my car.
Thanks for your contributions, KD. (Not being ironic)
I'd think we'd all be seeing the same thing - and we might, when everything is adjusted on my car.
We do. Put the car together and drive it.
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Not with me, not ever. I've always had some toe in.
Would that be an anti- Ackerman angle? Or reverse/ negative ? You got me on that one.
JR_Charger
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Lots of figurin' out to do before that happens.
So, theoretically, the SN95 Mustang rim with 5.73" backspacing should work. With the XXR 555 rims I'll have to use a 1/2-1" spacer or adapter because of the lip in the center hole that the the center cap clamps on to. The rims I have with 35mm offset and 6.13 backspacing, will likely rub in tight turns, but be o.k. most of the time. The version of this rim with 25mm offset and 5.73 backspacing should definitely work in front, with the spacer. Since I've only got 2 XXR- 555's at the moment, if the ones I've got will work in the back it is no trouble to get the other version for the front. Of course it would be extra sweet to get the 10" version of the rim, but I don't think that will fit without moving the leaf springs in or jacking up the car. Will have a look at it again soon.
For the front, I've either got to get a 1/2" spacer and longer studs, or a wider adapter (and possibly shorter studs).
It's going to be next to impossible to get these rims as close to the fender as Kern's with the amount of backspacing they have.
JR_Charger
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Would it affect Ackerman angle? AFAIK, changing the toe won't increase/decrease the total amount of increased turn in angle on the inside wheel. Just where it begins or ends.
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You are over complicating things.
Simply put, my tires contact the frame rail behind the tire on each side while never contacting any other part of the car. When I used to pay for alignments, I specified 1/8" toe IN. That is what I set it to when I aligned it the last time.
My 2007 Dodge truck is the opposite. The tires rub the front sway bar but nothing else.
Not at all. I was trying to explain for JR why the rear of the tire will hit the frame rail.
Not an unknown mystery. TOOT. toe out on turns.
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Well, since Ackermann cannot be adjusted, (but can be measured) I paid no attention to it.
My car has always tracked straight and steered well. It was a priority for me.
My car has always tracked straight and steered well. It was a priority for me.
JR_Charger
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Checked rear fitment again - there is a leaf spring clamp that is going to intersect the tire, in the front. But other than that, the rims I have will work in the back. Perhaps this clamp can be replaced with one that is not so wide (this one has a u-bolt. There's another clamp behind the tire that is just a band around the springs). Or perhaps it's possible to replace this one clamp with two - one inside the rim, and one in front of the tire. This looks like it would be a problem for anyone running wide tires, so what did you guys do with the clamp?
It looks like it might be just barely possible to get the 10" XXR 555 in the back. Compared to the front, there's surprisingly little clearance with the outer fender. Too bad I can't swap the clearances around.
It occurs to me that it might be easier to use adapters in the back than pull the axles and replace the factory studs with longer ones. I'm really not looking to invest more money and time into a pre '97 8 1/4.
It looks like it might be just barely possible to get the 10" XXR 555 in the back. Compared to the front, there's surprisingly little clearance with the outer fender. Too bad I can't swap the clearances around.
It occurs to me that it might be easier to use adapters in the back than pull the axles and replace the factory studs with longer ones. I'm really not looking to invest more money and time into a pre '97 8 1/4.
Are you using stock wheel bearings on the 8 1/4 ?
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