Thanks! Got some scrubbing scraping to do. Will report back.The undercoating looks fresh, so mineral spirits might work. If not, try heat and a scraper. You only need to see a couple of digits to see if it matches the rad support, vs the IBM card. The location of the stamp is not exact, but it should be in the general area, mine was not under the bumper bracket.
Glad yours matched. Big Relief!Edit
I was told by previous owner the stamping was under bumper bracket
BUT, With the above photo I went out and ckd. with fingers crossedNot that I was too worried.
BUT,,,
And Sure enough. This is exactly where mine is stamped. AND it matches the tag and radiator support![]()
Hi YY1, If you look at the punch card, the car has no options except the sun visor package. This was a stripped down Coronet Deluxe.I think someone posted a decode guide for IBM cars on FBBO a while ago.
I'd work on that and see if the obvious options line up.
Also look for any OEM paint under things.
If we're already at the point where we are pretty sure the core support SO is different than the IBM card SO...we might be done.
Great news: Rear body stamp numbers exposed. Plant 7 matches the VIN. 41208082 matches date and order number at upper corner of build card.
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Real early '66 model were spot welded, not riveted. I know because I have one.66's were riveted. 64 spot welded / punched and many added screws.
As for the build card of course it matches the VIN as that's how you apply..
Same with our Charger.My 67 Satellite that I'm currently restoring, the SO# is on the core support and the rear cross member just to the left of the left rear bumper bracket. They should match the order # on the IBM card.
OK.. my 10,000 mile HP2 was built in Dec of 1965. Riveted...Real early '66 model were spot welded, not riveted. I know because I have one.
Yeah, by then they were all riveted. My build date is 8-17-65.OK.. my 10,000 mile HP2 was built in Dec of 1965. Riveted...
No matter what the card and VIN tag says....who in this day and age is dumb enough to try and fake a 273 car for a 318, unless they have absolutely no ambition in life?Not that it matters, but the VIN code D is a 273.
Hey 45 cubes iz 45 cubes.No matter what the card and VIN tag says....who in this day and age is dumb enough to try and fake a 273 car for a 318, unless they have absolutely no ambition in life?
That just doesn't make any sense at all.![]()
You have a right to your opinion, but you do understand that the main issue was whether the shipping order number on the build card matched at least one body stamp?No matter what the card and VIN tag says....who in this day and age is dumb enough to try and fake a 273 car for a 318, unless they have absolutely no ambition in life?
That just doesn't make any sense at all.![]()
Oh, I understand what you're driving at here. Clearing the air and finding the truth is important especially if you need to either sell or verify the identity of the car.You have a right to your opinion, but you do understand that the main issue was whether the shipping order number on the build card matched at least one body stamp?
If the VIN had been swapped, because of a stolen vehicle, a problem from settling an estate, a salvage title, or something else, and that VIN swap was proven because the shipping order number front and rear matched, but did not match the build card, I would have at least have to tell the next owner that the VIN had been swapped. That's my mopar standards on personal conduct, regardless of whether it devalued the car. I would also have had to go back at the previous owner, because I would never have bought a VIN swapped car.
The reason for this post has nothing to do with engine size, which is not recorded in the body stamps anyway.