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Bendpak MD6XP lift….anyone use one under a B body?

Bend Pak unit for me. HD9XL I believe. My wagon is currently on it. It's big enough for my Dually. Provided I take the outside wheels off.

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So other than the drilled and tapped arm holes, any issues lifting your Chargers?
The drilled and tapped holes on the newer one are an upgrade from the hex nuts welded to the arms on the older lift.

I've had my 1500 Ram and my Chargers on these lifts.

They are rated for 6000 lbs. The Chargers are at most, around 4000 pounds.

The truck is short bed, regular cab, so the truck length is close to that of the Chargers.

Works for me.
 
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The drilled and tapped holes on the newer one are an upgrade from the hex nuts welded to the arms on the older lift.

I've had my 1500 Ram and my Chargers on these lifts.

They are rated for 6000 lbs. The Chargers are at most, around 4000 pounds.

The truck is short bed, regular cab, so the truck length is close to that of the Chargers.

Works for me.
I just went out to the garage to check.

My newer one is the MD-6XP

Manufactured in Dec 2015.

I can't get to the older one to check it right now...
 
I just went out to the garage to check.

My newer one is the MD-6XP

Manufactured in Dec 2015.

I can't get to the older one to check it right now...
So what is it that you don’t like on newer one as opposed to the older?
The lift im looking at is also the MD-6XP
 
MD6XP ... yes, I used one under my '69 RR. I was very useful to strip the car and do some mods as well as to do the full reassembly this past year. HOWEVER, they aren't the handiest thing now that the car is finished. Access to the middle underside is very restrictive. In my case the car sits low in the front so the headers will hit if I tried to drive over it - required ramps. But the 8 years I owned it I loved it. Recently sold it and will be installing a 4-post shortly.

I'll point out that with some careful maneuvering and balancing I was able to install the engine and trans on the k-frame from below. I had also made an attachment to use the hoist as an engine lift.

I'm 6' tall - at full height with the taller pads I could stand straight up under the trunk. Having a lift of this type go that high is usefull - if you have the ceiling height !! My ceiling height is 9'6" ... the car clears with a couple inches to spare.

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So what is it that you don’t like on newer one as opposed to the older?
The lift im looking at is also the MD-6XP
On both of my lifts, the motor and hydraulic pump are mounted on the two wheel dollie that is also used to move the lift around on the floor. While looking at the newer ones online about a year ago ( Yes, I was considering buying a third one for my other garage)
I noticed that the pump/motor is on a stand by itself, and the two wheel dollie/lift mover is now a separate piece. It could be easily modified to mimic the older ones - mount the pump/motor to the dollie...but then I saw that the price had almost doubled since the last one I bought, so I've designed a set of pneumatic tires and a hitch ( materials purchased, not built yet) that I can attach to one of the lifts, so that I can easily move it across the yard from one garage to to other on the rare occasion that I need one out there.
 
On both of my lifts, the motor and hydraulic pump are mounted on the two wheel dollie that is also used to move the lift around on the floor. While looking at the newer ones online about a year ago ( Yes, I was considering buying a third one for my other garage)
I noticed that the pump/motor is on a stand by itself, and the two wheel dollie/lift mover is now a separate piece. It could be easily modified to mimic the older ones - mount the pump/motor to the dollie...but then I saw that the price had almost doubled since the last one I bought, so I've designed a set of pneumatic tires and a hitch ( materials purchased, not built yet) that I can attach to one of the lifts, so that I can easily move it across the yard from one garage to to other on the rare occasion that I need one out there.
Appreciate all the input!!!
Waiting to hear back from Bendpak for concrete requirements
 
These things are not meant to be mobile. Occasional maneuvering - sure, but that's about it. If you do have to move it, raise it up a bit first - for some reason its a "little" easier to move.
 
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These things are not meant to be mobile. Occasional maneuvering - sure, but that's about it. If you do have to move it, raise it up a bit first - for some reason its a "little" easier to move.
True, but it can be done with a little ingenuity... Some guys complain about restricted access under the middle of the car. I've had good luck by using the lift to put the car up on my tallest Jack stands and sliding the lift out from under the car sideways.
I put a couple of cheap small Harbor freight furniture dollies and a 2x4 or 4x4 under the center pivot point of the legs, lower the lift down on them, the feet and wheels of the lift will raise up high enough to roll the lift out sideways from under the car. In fact, this is the way I usually reposition the lift in the garage. It's actually easier and more maneuverable than using the dollie/pump stand that came with it.
 
MD6XP ... yes, I used one under my '69 RR. I was very useful to strip the car and do some mods as well as to do the full reassembly this past year. HOWEVER, they aren't the handiest thing now that the car is finished. Access to the middle underside is very restrictive. In my case the car sits low in the front so the headers will hit if I tried to drive over it - required ramps. But the 8 years I owned it I loved it. Recently sold it and will be installing a 4-post shortly.

I'll point out that with some careful maneuvering and balancing I was able to install the engine and trans on the k-frame from below. I had also made an attachment to use the hoist as an engine lift.

I'm 6' tall - at full height with the taller pads I could stand straight up under the trunk. Having a lift of this type go that high is usefull - if you have the ceiling height !! My ceiling height is 9'6" ... the car clears with a couple inches to spare.

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I'd be interested to see how you set it up for the engine/transmission/k member installation...would save me some time trying to figure something out.
 
I'd be interested to see how you set it up for the engine/transmission/k member installation...would save me some time trying to figure something out.
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. I set it up so the hydraulics were under the front of the car. I had the front arms extended as far forward as they'd go. I had the rear end (a nice heavy Dana) installed so there'd be as much weight as possible at the rear. The rear of the car was supported at the spring perches - this allows more rear weight overhang to counter the weight that's about to be added. I did not mount all the front suspension to the K before installing it - this would have added more weight and really, it was quite easy adding it all later at a nice working height. You want the engine on a dolly that's high enough to comfortably get under the car to install all the bolts. When the car was on the hoist I could easily lift the front end of the car by hand so there couldn't have been much more than 50 pounds of weight bias forward of the rear jack mounting point. This is good. Raise the car, get everything out of the way of getting the drivetrain slid in place, have your K-member and trans crossmember bolts and wrenches handy. Slide the assembly under the car in roughly the right spot and slowly lower the car over it.

The contraption you see here was "plan b". In the event the hoist idea didn't work I would have used this with an engine hoist to raise the front end to install the assembly. Once on the hoist all this was removed for better access.

I installed the assembly with a fully assembled motor - headers, etc..

Once the engine was installed those front dolly wheels were put back on, the car moved off the hoist and the hoist repositioned for better weight distribution.

Hope this helps.

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True, but it can be done with a little ingenuity... Some guys complain about restricted access under the middle of the car. I've had good luck by using the lift to put the car up on my tallest Jack stands and sliding the lift out from under the car sideways.
I put a couple of cheap small Harbor freight furniture dollies and a 2x4 or 4x4 under the center pivot point of the legs, lower the lift down on them, the feet and wheels of the lift will raise up high enough to roll the lift out sideways from under the car. In fact, this is the way I usually reposition the lift in the garage. It's actually easier and more maneuverable than using the dollie/pump stand that came with it.
The point of the hoist is NOT to have to crawl under the car !!!
 
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. I set it up so the hydraulics were under the front of the car. I had the front arms extended as far forward as they'd go. I had the rear end (a nice heavy Dana) installed so there'd be as much weight as possible at the rear. The rear of the car was supported at the spring perches - this allows more rear weight overhang to counter the weight that's about to be added. I did not mount all the front suspension to the K before installing it - this would have added more weight and really, it was quite easy adding it all later at a nice working height. You want the engine on a dolly that's high enough to comfortably get under the car to install all the bolts. When the car was on the hoist I could easily lift the front end of the car by hand so there couldn't have been much more than 50 pounds of weight bias forward of the rear jack mounting point. This is good. Raise the car, get everything out of the way of getting the drivetrain slid in place, have your K-member and trans crossmember bolts and wrenches handy. Slide the assembly under the car in roughly the right spot and slowly lower the car over it.

The contraption you see here was "plan b". In the event the hoist idea didn't work I would have used this with an engine hoist to raise the front end to install the assembly. Once on the hoist all this was removed for better access.

I installed the assembly with a fully assembled motor - headers, etc..

Once the engine was installed those front dolly wheels were put back on, the car moved off the hoist and the hoist repositioned for better weight distribution.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks.
 
The point of the hoist is NOT to have to crawl under the car !!!
Really? The point of the hoist is to be able to safely access things under the car, instead of using jackstands, especially when wheels need to be off, no different than a two post.
 
But some people will argue about anything !!

And you appear easily triggered lol
 
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