• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

I believe I have figured out why the seats are not moving. Before I had the carpet in and Before I had the carpet in I tested both seats and they worked fine however, there were multiple holes in the floor as this was originally a bench seat car and I’m sure somebody put some bucket seats of some kind in there in its life. That said I had found the holes that fit the factory bucket seat tracks, but I got lazy and did not weld up the excess holes so when I went to make Clarence for the seats through the carpet, I believe I chose the wrong holes, which then forced me to push and pull and twist the tracks to get them into what I thought were the right holes but nothat said I had found the holes that fit the factory bucket seat tracks, but I got lazy and did not weld up the excess holes so when I went to make Clarence for the seats through the carpet, I believe I chose the wrong holes, which then forced me to push and pull and twist the tracks to get them into what I thought were the right holes but but that I believe has bound up the tracks. So I’m going to pull out the seats figure out what the right holes are and then start over again and fix whatever damage I may have done and then I will have to seal up the wrong holes, but obviously since the carpet is in I can’t weld them shot without pulling the interior back out which I’m not about to do.
 
also, for those following along when I did the cat whiskers for the door panels, I had used some small sheet metal screws to attach them to the door panels. well that does not work as the windows when you roll them up we’ll just peel the cat whisker off, they really need the staples which I believe came with the whiskers or at least I had them so I had to go back and drill two holes per staple insert them and then bend the legs over, but that worked very well
 
Finished making the hood look pretty, now I have to focus on trying to get the air grabber to function (might be a long pole).

I did remove the left seat and discovered that I did NOT use the wrong holes, however I do believe that the holes i used are not correct. They are not far off but far enough. This coupled with the after market seat tracks has resulted in non-functioning seats. I am in the process of trying to sort this out.

IMG_2119.jpg
IMG_2123.jpg
IMG_2125.jpg
IMG_2127.jpg
 
Here is a pic of the drivers side seat and the plate circled in red is supposed to lay flat on the floor (unless there were spacers added). Anyway, this plate on this new after market track is very thin, I am thinking like 18g. When I removed the seat this plate was bent up by I believe the carpet.

Besides that the track doesn't work very well (inboard side is fine). I am thinking about templating the thin plate and cutting another one out of 14g with my Arc Droid and then tacking it on or I could just use retaining washers to hold them in place for reassembly.

All this said I am not convinced it is the plate or the ill aligned hole, rather I am thinking the track is trash but I guess 1 step at a time.

IMG_2128.jpg
 
I am working on the seats and have discovered a thing or 2...

First is that while my hole placement was "in the ball park" they were not generous enough to not put pressure onto the tracks.

Next is that the out board track (the one with the handle on it) was being bent or flexed when the bolts holding to the seat frame were tightened. This caused the track from not wanting to slide as well as making contact where it shouldn't.

Once I got the first 2 sorted while the seat (just working on the drivers side right now) would got into the car WAY easier, it still would not move when tightened. I loosened all 4 nuts and the seat moves exceptionally well. I fixed the flexing by adding some shims (body shims from HF) to the track. I fixed the hole issue with a carbide bit.

So, I am now going to make some 1/2" Delrin bushings to go under the tracks and see if this helps. As some of you might know, many factory seats has these spacers on the bottom and many have said that they were installed by the dealers to "raise" the seat.

I've always had my doubts about this because a 1/2" spacer (IMO) would not make hardly any difference to the driver. This then begs the question as to what are they for as I have seen them on many Mopars of the era, my "thought" is that they raise the tracks out of the carpet allowing them move more easily. I could be wrong but I am about to find out (at least as it relates to my car).


IMG_2131.jpg
IMG_2132.jpg
IMG_2133.jpg
 
70chall440 said:
I am working on the seats and have discovered a thing or 2...

First is that while my hole placement was "in the ball park" they were not generous enough to not put pressure onto the tracks.

Next is that the out board track (the one with the handle on it) was being bent or flexed when the bolts holding to the seat frame were tightened. This caused the track from not wanting to slide as well as making contact where it shouldn't.

Once I got the first 2 sorted while the seat (just working on the drivers side right now) would got into the car WAY easier, it still would not move when tightened. I loosened all 4 nuts and the seat moves exceptionally well. I fixed the flexing by adding some shims (body shims from HF) to the track. I fixed the hole issue with a carbide bit.

So, I am now going to make some 1/2" Delrin bushings to go under the tracks and see if this helps. As some of you might know, many factory seats has these spacers on the bottom and many have said that they were installed by the dealers to "raise" the seat.

I've always had my doubts about this because a 1/2" spacer (IMO) would not make hardly any difference to the driver. This then begs the question as to what are they for as I have seen them on many Mopars of the era, my "thought" is that they raise the tracks out of the carpet allowing them move more easily. I could be wrong but I am about to find out (at least as it relates to my car).


View attachment 1920187View attachment 1920188View attachment 1920189
Click to expand...

I’m following you on the seat track issues. I have tried several different combinations on my aftermarket seats and still can’t seem to get them sitting right and/or securely mounted. I have made some crude adapters and tried a few different seat tracks, but they work loose and the seat rocks.

My problem is keeping the seat sitting low enough and then the deep differential in areas of the floor under the seat. Interesting to see what you come up with. Thank you for sharing your experience.
 
64fury74charger said:
I’m following you on the seat track issues. I have tried several different combinations on my aftermarket seats and still can’t seem to get them sitting right and/or securely mounted. I have made some crude adapters and tried a few different seat tracks, but they work loose and the seat rocks.

My problem is keeping the seat sitting low enough and then the deep differential in areas of the floor under the seat. Interesting to see what you come up with. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Click to expand...
@64fury74charger Are you using stock style tracks?
 
64fury74charger said:
Unfortunately no, original tracks went with the original seats and that was entirely my own fault for not realizing that it would be smart to keep the tracks. I own this one.
Click to expand...
Ah ok so you are trying to use some aftermarket tracks? I have been down this road couple of times and the only way I have ever got them to work is to mock the seats up in the car without the carpet in which means using wood or even some metal to get the seats to the height you want and level. Then take measurements for the stand offs on each corner.

It can be done but as you are finding out its not really a good solution, stock type tracks are the best. That said, I could try and get some measurements off of mine since I have them out. 71-74 use the same tracks as an E body.
 
70chall440 said:
Ah ok so you are trying to use some aftermarket tracks? I have been down this road couple of times and the only way I have ever got them to work is to mock the seats up in the car without the carpet in which means using wood or even some metal to get the seats to the height you want and level. Then take measurements for the stand offs on each corner.

It can be done but as you are finding out its not really a good solution, stock type tracks are the best. That said, I could try and get some measurements off of mine since I have them out. 71-74 use the same tracks as an E body.
Click to expand...

Those original tracks are missed and I recently purchased a contour gauge and am working on making some kind of pattern to match the floor irregularities and find a way to make a level platform to anchor the tracks and seat on. Not sure how this will go.
 
70chall440 said:
Are you using stock seats or aftermarket seats?
Click to expand...

Original seats are gone with the tracks. I am currently on my second set of aftermarket seats with the knob winding recliner instead of the little ratchet that strips immediately. The other problem is I only have the driveway to work in as our garage is really small and not wide enough to open the door so my work options are also weather dependent.
 
well, it’s not really complicated, but it does take some measuring and making quality spacers. If you were closer, I’d tell you to bring it down and we could get it sorted out.
 
70chall440 said:
well, it’s not really complicated, but it does take some measuring and making quality spacers. If you were closer, I’d tell you to bring it down and we could get it sorted out.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your help and I will have to form a plan and see what I can come up with. If I really get stuck I may just make a nice little road trip to come and see you. I could bring the seats in my Gladiator. I’m just getting back to the seat now after driving the Charger for several weeks to work to put some real miles on the efi system and everything else. The car has been excellent and the only problem has been the seat loosened up.
 
64fury74charger said:
I appreciate your help and I will have to form a plan and see what I can come up with. If I really get stuck I may just make a nice little road trip to come and see you. I could bring the seats in my Gladiator. I’m just getting back to the seat now after driving the Charger for several weeks to work to put some real miles on the efi system and everything else. The car has been excellent and the only problem has been the seat loosened up.
Click to expand...
@64fury74charger I am very sure I could make something but again it would be difficult (but possible) without the car. I can tell you this, I measured my seat tracks and you need a 2" riser on the inside (next to the trans tunnel) and a 1" riser on the outside. From hole to hole (front to back) I "believe" it is 15" but I would have to measure again.

Aftermarket seats are generally flat on the bottom, at least where the track/s would mount so if you were to make two 2" blocks and two 1" blocks (per seat) you would be there or very close. I would use some square tubing so that you could do a bolt on the bottom to go through the floor and then you bolt the track to the top side. How rigid it all is depends on the material you use. You do not need a full length rail (front to back) although you could do that if you wanted.

On my seats the outside track (where the plate is) is flat, the inside track does have a gap in it where it might go over a rib in the floor but you could either just use a block in the front and back or grind/cut the area to clear the rib (see my next post and you will see a pic of what I am saying).

Perhaps create a post with the seats you are using and ask the forum if anyone has done the same?

I am happy to help you but I don't want you to make a trip and not get resolution to your problem.
 
Last edited:
I got the seat/s sorted I think. I made the Delrin spacers and the first ones were 1/2" thick which proved too be too thick. I then made some 1/4" thick ones and they worked awesome. I am now very convinced that the spacers/discs used by the factory were to make the seats easier to adjust rather than adjust the height.

All this said I am now at a bit of a cross road. With the seat all the way back it is just a little tight. The car would be drivable but not as comfortable as I would prefer normally.

Since I am messing with the seats I guess it would be a good time to make some seat adjustment plates.... or just leave it as it and move on then readress at a later date should the space really bother me... hmmm lol.

Here are the spacers

IMG_2136.jpg
IMG_2137.jpg
IMG_2138.jpg
IMG_2139.jpg
 
70chall440 said:
@64fury74charger I am very sure I could make something but again it would be difficult (but possible) without the car. I can tell you this, I measured my seat tracks and you need a 2" riser on the inside (next to the trans tunnel) and a 1" riser on the outside. From hole to hole (front to back) I "believe" it is 15" but I would have to measure again.

Aftermarket seats are generally flat on the bottom, at least where the track/s would mount so if you were to make two 2" blocks and two 1" blocks (per seat) you would be there or very close. I would use some square tubing so that you could do a bolt on the bottom to go through the floor and then you bolt the track to the top side. How rigid it all is depends on the material you use. You do not need a full length rail (front to back) although you could do that if you wanted.

On my seats the outside track (where the plate is) is flat, the inside track does have a gap in it where it might go over a rib in the floor but you could either just use a block in the front and back or grind/cut the area to clear the rib (see my next post and you will see a pic of what I am saying).

Perhaps create a post with the seats you are using and ask the forum if anyone has done the same?

I am happy to help you but I don't want you to make a trip and not get resolution to your problem.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your help and measurements. I need to pull the old carpet anyway as it is toast. I was thinking about using some square tubing to make an adapter but I was thinking it might be too tall.
I have some wood pieces I can play around with and go from there. Again, thank you so much for sharing your experience and advice with me. Your Charger looks awesome and that’s going to be fun to drive.
 
64fury74charger said:
Thank you for your help and measurements. I need to pull the old carpet anyway as it is toast. I was thinking about using some square tubing to make an adapter but I was thinking it might be too tall.
I have some wood pieces I can play around with and go from there. Again, thank you so much for sharing your experience and advice with me. Your Charger looks awesome and that’s going to be fun to drive.
Click to expand...
@64fury74charger I have thought about your situation and I think if it were me, I'd buy a set of re-pop seat tracks and bolt your seats to them. I did this on my 73 Cuda resto mod, I used Neon ACR seats and adapted a set of new repop tracks to them which wasn't all that difficult.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Viper swapped ‘74 Charger Build Thread
Replies
11
Views
1K
Budnicks
Budnicks
Brutalowner
Charger build discussion
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
Brutalowner
Brutalowner
70chall440
71 Superbee hood black out question
Replies
3
Views
352
70chall440
70chall440
R
FOR SALE 71 Plymouth GTX matching numbers rare options - no fender tag no build sheet
Replies
6
Views
2K
roadrunner57
R
D
1970 superbee Rear windshield weather strip Supplier
Replies
5
Views
361
BLK 68 R/T
BLK 68 R/T
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top