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Axle & Diff Rebuild Time

I would replace. The good doctor stocks them. Kim
Based on what I've read (searching FBBO), I'll have to weld in a bushing to get the centering hole to around .5 like the OEM - correct?
 
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Based on what I've read (searching FBBO), I'll have to weld in a bushing to get the centering hole to around .5 like the OEM - correct?
Decided to replace that perch - ordered a pair from Summit (faster delivery to me than Dr. Diff). Ordering a bushing to weld in the centering hole and building a jig to align the new one to the exact position of the old one. It will set me back a few days from finishing the rear axle, but want to deal with it now so I don't have to mess with it later after the car is reassembled.
 
The in/out posistion isn't as critical as getting the angle correct. Cut off one at a time and use a digital level to measure the the angle of the remaining perch. Then match the replacement to the other. Check both first. They may not be exact. You can split the difference.
Doug
 
The in/out posistion isn't as critical as getting the angle correct. Cut off one at a time and use a digital level to measure the the angle of the remaining perch. Then match the replacement to the other. Check both first. They may not be exact. You can split the difference.
Doug
I'm only planning on replacing the driver's side. The passenger's side had very little rust and is solid/thick. I made a jig to line up the 3 holes on the perch with the end of the axle (using the studs). It should get the angle and position back to its current position. I will take it in place then triple check level compared to the other perch before welding in place.

Any hints on mig welder settings to penetrate the housing. I want to get it right.

Thanks
Ross
 
I'm only planning on replacing the driver's side. The passenger's side had very little rust and is solid/thick. I made a jig to line up the 3 holes on the perch with the end of the axle (using the studs). It should get the angle and position back to its current position. I will take it in place then triple check level compared to the other perch before welding in place.

Any hints on mig welder settings to penetrate the housing. I want to get it right.

Thanks
Ross
The hotter the better. Quick shirt welds. Weld an 1" at a time then cool. 8 3/4 housings move a ton with heat.
Doug
 
Ok, so new problem. Removed the old perch and found what I was expecting - a lot of rust. I removed all the big stuff and am determining if it's salvageable. Can I slowly (a little at a time) lay weld in the divot and build it back up?

I also started searching for a nearby 8 3/4 housing to see if I can find one close to my location. A guy I bought a few parts from has a complete axle with leaf springs, but he wants $2500 for it (out of a '68 charger). I'm going to see if he will separate or take less. What would be a reasonable offer for a complete axle (741 diff case) w/leaf springs?

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With all of the heat being generated from the buildup, don't think trying to use that housing is a good idea. Look for another housing. @Dartn440 just came across a couple of carcasses in NC. Maybe he has an extra? Or someone in your area.
 
I just got 2 more housings last night. I’ve got a bunch of stuff, including axles. PM me and we can talk. @ckessel thanks for the shout out. Wife is gonna kill me if I don’t make big piles into smaller piles.
 
With all of the heat being generated from the buildup, don't think trying to use that housing is a good idea. Look for another housing. @Dartn440 just came across a couple of carcasses in NC. Maybe he has an extra? Or someone in your area.
I'm looking for another housing, but trying my luck on the build up. What do I have to lose? Adding a little at a time and letting it cool for 10-15 mins in between. Might take a few days but no warpage so far.

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