Replace the perch or find another housing. Housing may be a better route.
Based on what I've read (searching FBBO), I'll have to weld in a bushing to get the centering hole to around .5 like the OEM - correct?I would replace. The good doctor stocks them. Kim
Decided to replace that perch - ordered a pair from Summit (faster delivery to me than Dr. Diff). Ordering a bushing to weld in the centering hole and building a jig to align the new one to the exact position of the old one. It will set me back a few days from finishing the rear axle, but want to deal with it now so I don't have to mess with it later after the car is reassembled.Based on what I've read (searching FBBO), I'll have to weld in a bushing to get the centering hole to around .5 like the OEM - correct?
I'm only planning on replacing the driver's side. The passenger's side had very little rust and is solid/thick. I made a jig to line up the 3 holes on the perch with the end of the axle (using the studs). It should get the angle and position back to its current position. I will take it in place then triple check level compared to the other perch before welding in place.The in/out posistion isn't as critical as getting the angle correct. Cut off one at a time and use a digital level to measure the the angle of the remaining perch. Then match the replacement to the other. Check both first. They may not be exact. You can split the difference.
Doug
The hotter the better. Quick shirt welds. Weld an 1" at a time then cool. 8 3/4 housings move a ton with heat.I'm only planning on replacing the driver's side. The passenger's side had very little rust and is solid/thick. I made a jig to line up the 3 holes on the perch with the end of the axle (using the studs). It should get the angle and position back to its current position. I will take it in place then triple check level compared to the other perch before welding in place.
Any hints on mig welder settings to penetrate the housing. I want to get it right.
Thanks
Ross