• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Engine stalls intermittently…ignition switch?

Believe your post shows you have a 383. When you remove the fuel pump in a big block, the push rod will likely drop down as it comes in contact with the arm of the pump. It's a bit tricky to get it pushed back up and keep in position so you can install the pump. Usually a thick coating of a heavy grease on the rod will keep it in the up position so it won't be fighting you to get the pump installed. If I remember correctly, the rod should be 3.25" long, but you may want to double check that number.
 
When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.
 
Dennis H said:
I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia.
Click to expand...
You push the button and change the lock cylinder. Unless your switch is different than mine is.
1759703272953.png
 
Dennis H said:
When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.
Click to expand...
Luckily, my old key works in the new ignition switch...
 
OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob
 
bobfake said:
I changed the whole switch just to be sure.
Click to expand...
All good. I quoted Dennis. He was mentioning he now has an extra key after replacing his switch. You can just exchange the switch and transfer the key lock cylinder from the old switch.
 
bobfake said:
OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob
Click to expand...
Where is the ignition box?
 
In case it hasn't been mentioned.. tighten the receptical terminals in the 5 wire plug..
 
Well...the hits just keep on coming...really thought I had the situation resolved when I redid the mounting of the FBO ignition box to the firewall.

Ran great on Thursday at the Fall Cruise In in Ocean City. Ran great again Friday morning where I parked for the day at the Convention Center. Went to leave Friday afternoon to hed home and was sitting in a line of traffic to get out of the parking lot and it just quit. Would crank fine, but no fire. Got a push out of the lot and onto the street.

Got some help from another MOPAR guy who had a spare ignition box he let me try. I wasn't thinking that the box itself was the issue because it is a brand new (May 2025) box. Switched it out and sure enough it fired right up. Back to the Cruise In on Saturday and it ran flawless all day.

I'll be calling FBO tomorrow to have a discussion with them about this.
 
bobfake said:
Well...the hits just keep on coming...really thought I had the situation resolved when I redid the mounting of the FBO ignition box to the firewall.

Ran great on Thursday at the Fall Cruise In in Ocean City. Ran great again Friday morning where I parked for the day at the Convention Center. Went to leave Friday afternoon to hed home and was sitting in a line of traffic to get out of the parking lot and it just quit. Would crank fine, but no fire. Got a push out of the lot and onto the street.

Got some help from another MOPAR guy who had a spare ignition box he let me try. I wasn't thinking that the box itself was the issue because it is a brand new (May 2025) box. Switched it out and sure enough it fired right up. Back to the Cruise In on Saturday and it ran flawless all day.

I'll be calling FBO tomorrow to have a discussion with them about this.
Click to expand...
Did you hear anything back.. Believe it or not.. im in this same boat. FBO box, bypassing the resistor and its doing just what you describe. Starts like a champ.. runs, idles and will just cut completely out. Thing i did notice though.. The FBO box has a red light lit when it has power. The last time mine crapped out.. i looked in the bay and the box LED was dark and it would crank but not start. I left it 10 mins or so came back and saw the light back on and it cranked and started right up soo that tells me the entire ignition circuit is losing power. Could it be something worn out getting hot and crapping out and works when cool ? i dunno heh. classic mopars are fun right? right? :D in fact... let me swap the ecu and re-add the resistor and see if it does the same thing.
 
bobfake said:
Brand new Holley 4160 on the motor...
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have a lot going on. :rolleyes:

I like the idea of checking all your electrical connections from the bulkhead connector plugs out to the engine etc - pay attention to the ballast resistor terminals.

Make sure all connections are tight and crimps have not 'opened up'.
 
bobfake said:
Well...the hits just keep on coming...really thought I had the situation resolved when I redid the mounting of the FBO ignition box to the firewall.

Ran great on Thursday at the Fall Cruise In in Ocean City. Ran great again Friday morning where I parked for the day at the Convention Center. Went to leave Friday afternoon to hed home and was sitting in a line of traffic to get out of the parking lot and it just quit. Would crank fine, but no fire. Got a push out of the lot and onto the street.

Got some help from another MOPAR guy who had a spare ignition box he let me try. I wasn't thinking that the box itself was the issue because it is a brand new (May 2025) box. Switched it out and sure enough it fired right up. Back to the Cruise In on Saturday and it ran flawless all day.

I'll be calling FBO tomorrow to have a discussion with them about this.
Click to expand...
I hate electrical work but I am thinking it maybe possible that it burned out because of losing the ground multiple times...
 
bobfake said:
Forgot to mention…I put an FBO ignition box on and that bypasses (jumps) the ballast resistor, so that should be removed from the equation.
Click to expand...
I've just had issues with my FBO box piece of junk threw it in the rubbish
 
Something to consider if all else fails.

I had weird electrical problems. Tracked it down to internal corrosion of wires, outer coating looked OK but was corroded with brown and green inside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B-Body 70
70 b body ignition switch bulletin wires change?
Replies
2
Views
189
B-Body 70
B-Body 70
S
Ignition switch light power location
Replies
0
Views
116
Stucat
S
Blue Brick
Replacing the electronic ignition with points - 1977 400 4V
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
4K
Vinny
Vinny
C
66 Charger won't start
Replies
12
Views
903
Charger-Man-NC
C
C
Relay for ignition.
Replies
8
Views
745
chrger1967
C
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top