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Engine stalls intermittently…ignition switch?

Believe your post shows you have a 383. When you remove the fuel pump in a big block, the push rod will likely drop down as it comes in contact with the arm of the pump. It's a bit tricky to get it pushed back up and keep in position so you can install the pump. Usually a thick coating of a heavy grease on the rod will keep it in the up position so it won't be fighting you to get the pump installed. If I remember correctly, the rod should be 3.25" long, but you may want to double check that number.
 
When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.
 
I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia.
You push the button and change the lock cylinder. Unless your switch is different than mine is.
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When it doesn’t restart, does it spin? Clutch meaning bump start? I too replaced the ignition switch for no reason and now have 3 keys instead of 2. A real pia. Fuel smell could be imagined or there before.
Luckily, my old key works in the new ignition switch...
 
OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob
 
I changed the whole switch just to be sure.
All good. I quoted Dennis. He was mentioning he now has an extra key after replacing his switch. You can just exchange the switch and transfer the key lock cylinder from the old switch.
 
OK...yet another update and I think this time I do have it resolved...

With the engine running in the garage, I started to move wiring...coil +, coil -, wires from the ignition box...etc.

Well...As I was pushing/pulling on the plug from the ignition box, the engine stalled. I pushed it back towards the firewall and it kept running. I could see where the bolt securing one side of the ignition box was pulling away from the firewall. Making the engine stall was a repeatable process (YAY!!)

Removed the ignition box and drilled/tapped a larger bolt hole into the firewall and reinstalled. Now I can push/pull on the ignition box and wiring and no stalling occurs.

I know grounds are important and I'm glad I was able to find this one and resolve it.

Thanks for all the advice along the way...I really appreciate it...
Bob
Where is the ignition box?
 
In case it hasn't been mentioned.. tighten the receptical terminals in the 5 wire plug..
 
Well...the hits just keep on coming...really thought I had the situation resolved when I redid the mounting of the FBO ignition box to the firewall.

Ran great on Thursday at the Fall Cruise In in Ocean City. Ran great again Friday morning where I parked for the day at the Convention Center. Went to leave Friday afternoon to hed home and was sitting in a line of traffic to get out of the parking lot and it just quit. Would crank fine, but no fire. Got a push out of the lot and onto the street.

Got some help from another MOPAR guy who had a spare ignition box he let me try. I wasn't thinking that the box itself was the issue because it is a brand new (May 2025) box. Switched it out and sure enough it fired right up. Back to the Cruise In on Saturday and it ran flawless all day.

I'll be calling FBO tomorrow to have a discussion with them about this.
 
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