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It appears someone has bypassed the OEM black (original alternator output) with the red wire. The black runs through the bulk head connector (P cavity) and feeds the ammeter and several other circuits at a large splice behind the dash. If you do not have a FSM you should purchase one.
Mike
This situation highlights a common issue with building a car on your schedule. I'm sure many folks have been disappointed to spend extra money on defective products, whether or not it was under their control. I would like to think the manufacturers would understand our issues but, most are in...
The connector appears original. The stud photo is poor quality-does it have a thread on it? If so plug it on. I see a male connector welded on to attach a ground to. Nice. Just wire it to a chassis part for a good ground instead of using the spring steel "snap" on ground connector.
Mike
For example here are a couple pics of my home-built system on my 65 318 Poly 65 Coronet. I used cheap glass packs but, they do drone about 55 MPH (I plan to change them for quieter mufflers). I used 2" pipe and purchased U bends.
Mike
4 speakers is enough for a stereo system, I am assuming 8 track players were stereo output? Does the radio have enough output wattage to carry that many speakers?
Mike
I hit a turkey with my company truck and broke the plastic grill. I was passing a slower vehicle when it happened and had no room to maneuver. All I could see in my mirrors was feathers!
Mike
News to me, the swap leaves very little tunnel room and necessitates transmission mount relocation and drive shaft shortening.
Not that I didn't mount my engine as far back as I could!
Mike
A couple of years ago I filled out a lot of rust pits on a pair of Ford 9' axle shafts, right where the seal contacts. I used JB Weld original formula and sanded them with a piece of emery cloth. No leaks have occurred to date.
Mike