Search results for query: alternator bypass

*throws hands up* I've put a new alternator, voltage regulator, and starter Relay on this car and still don't have a charging system that works. I have 12v on the ignition side of the VR with the key on and 12v on the FLD side when the car is running. There is 12v at the alternator terminal. The...

Thanks. I’m looking to keep the ammeter and I understand bypass, etc. I think I’ve found my answers, so I appreciate all of the responses. For now I’m looking for a two field alternator with lower amps.

Are you running a high amp alternator w a lot of draw on it, stereo amps, fuel injection/electric fuel pumps, dual electric fans etc...? If not, no need to bypass ammeter. I did a full conversion so it's the same gauge, but the guts are a voltage meter. I have 120 amp alternator and a lot of...

That's beyond my skill set lol I'm assuming you mean the fusible link that I have going from the starter solenoid and into the bulkhead. I can figure out which wire comes off the interior side, but if I get rid of it then I don't know how to get power to the gauge cluster. Unless I'm just...

Heat is caused by resistance in the system. Either the connection is not clean/tight enough or the current flow is more than the wire size allows. Do you have a greater than OEM alternator output? The wire terminal should go on the stud, followed by the washer and nut. I am not familiar with any...

So in that case, are just larger wires all you need? There are posts on the dodgecharger forum that outline exactly that with larger wires. Does that have the same effect as a charge wire? I was wondering if all you need is bypass and using larger wires, say 8 or 10 gauge, is the ammeter...

I don't care what cars today have. Does our 60s car have the same electronics as a 2019 dodge pick up? NO so don't compare . So as you stated the only fuse , is the fuseable link on the engine side of bulkhead. You fry your fuseable link, the system is not dead, until you turn off your car...

The batteries I've used are all NAPA auto parts brand. They can sit for 2-3 months or more if disconnected and still be good enough to crank this over if they are disconnected. The horn has never worked. The prior owner put in a doorbell switch and an aftermarket horn. I put in a radio, it...

Okay I have been chasing this for 2 months. It is a 72 Charger with 70 amp alternator square back 2 field Fully replaced engine wiring harness when restored 10 years ago Replaced the bulkhead connector last year Replaced the ignition switch and fixed al the connections {did this today}...

It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how...

I’m building a 1967 GTX for a customer and have a couple questions regarding the charging system. The car is a 1967 GTX, it’s a 440 non a/c car that is getting a Procharger and a FiTech fuel injection. We’ve relocated the battery to the trunk and have run 4 gauge wire from the battery to the...

Hey everyone! I posted previously about some issues I was having with my 1969 Charger not running right. The responses were very helpful and we thought we had the problems resolved, but now they're worse than ever. What's weird is that the more new parts we put on it, the worse it runs. The car...

As I mentioned, I don’t see a reason to remove the existant black wire on bulkhead and simply add the extra one if is still in working order. My idea at least is keep the main splice getting power from both “legs” connected to the power line, the one from the amm which gets the parallel path...

Today I finally got my front disc power brake conversion completed on the 69 bird. So exciting and they work great! Then I drove to my dad’s house to put the bagger on the mower for leaf season. I was ready to leave and go find a mustang or something to embarrass but no start. Just clicking. So...

It all started with an almost electrical fire… Driving back from brunch with the family and got that no good acrid burning smell, then gray smoke from the footwell (this is why I carry fire extinguishers, though luckily didn’t need it this time. Limped it home and tore into the wiring under...

You might want to read through this thread. Diagnosing high voltage

I only have like a 1000 miles on this harness. After I tried to crank it a couple times there was smoke came out from the car around where the starter relay was at. First thing I noticed was the fusible link was melted open about an inch and it was super hot. All I know it happened when the...

This post shows a version of the bypass and they loop the black alternator wire with the new wire on the ammeter black terminal. So in this case I guess the accessories are still fed but not sure. More to digest. Thanks for the help and making me think!!! Some considerations about the...

I did the Mad Files ammeter bypass. Then ran my 130 amp alternator directly to my battery. Battery to starter relay and bulkhead. No alternator to bulkhead. This way any accessories only draw from battery and no chance over over amping any wires. I'm sure you could leave the ammeter in service...

Yeah. I mainly want to know if the initial surge on the gauge is a problem before I go full Nacho ammeter wiring fix. I’m pushing 60 and expect to see my gauge follow the turn signal blink at a stop. It’s part of the experience since that’s all we had back then.