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What I'd do is JB Weld a thin piece of aluminum or steel on the inside to cover the cracked section, which will make it much stronger than just epoxy alone. I used a similar technique to repair a broken plastic mounting screw post on my glovebox door: Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970...

My earliest memory of seeing a car that really caught my eye, I must've been in Grade 1 or 2. I was walking to school with an older kid and a Dart very similar to this drove by. It's funny how you can remember some details so vividly, but I asked the older boy, "What kind of car is that?!" and...

Agreed, I posted my observations about this when I installed my 1970 Charger sidemarkers on my car. The retainers I had were slightly different, the mounting studs were too high. They were easily modified to fit properly by drilling a few new holes. For the lens mounting screws, I bought some...

I like the RT taillights too. My buddy bought his 1971 Charger not long after I bought my '70 back in the late 80's. He later added the bulge hood, Go wing, RT doors and the RT taillights to an otherwise plain-Jane '71 Charger. He also replaced the original column shift with a console.

Cool. What I wish for is a vintage pump that still pumps vintage-priced gas.

Rallyes look great on some cars. We had a metallic pale blue Volare that looked good with Rallyes.

They're a matte black, at least in the interior screw kit I bought. Most of the other screws in the kit were chrome/steel, so it seems they were black intentionally. Seems to make sense because the cover itself is black, and the instrument panel screws are also black--but those are a more gloss...

I haven't been active at it for a few years, but I was heavily into resto-modding vintage RC cars. Upgrading the electronics, beefing up whatever was a wink link, etc. Gallery of some vintage RC car builds I also play the drums and jam with my band every Sunday. We play heavier stuff like...

Those are Centerline Champ 500's. There were a lot of off-brand clones of those, though. I think even Jeep put a similar design on their vehicles in the 80's or 90's.

I'm on the opposite end of the scale. I don't care for T-birds, and least of all the 1967 model year. The taillights looked like Fig Newtons to me. Fig-Newtonbird.

Getting the heater box out of the car is the paint point. Once it's out, there's not a whole lot to it, once you have the DMT kit. It's the disconnecting heater hoses, linkage and mounting bolts, some drippy mess that's guaranteed to happen. My heater core and blower motor were both good, but...

I'll suggest "go for it...as long as you have a few 50-lb. bags of kitty litter".

Or if your floorboards are missing any body plugs... :lol:

It makes a car look like a fine wine...not a stop sign.

That's how I understood it, too...

Here's a red I would be happy with:

US Mags Indy 101 slots are beautiful, that's what's going to replace these fugly dated 80's wheels on Grendel. But I also love Centerlines and have them on my '86 GN. I don't like typical 5-spoke designs, they're all too common for my tastes, but if you can't afford the Daddy Warbucks fancy...

I'm not a fan of red either, but I'd take a really dark pearl/metallic red that's so dark it's almost black in the shade, but has a sweet black cherry glint in the sun.

Very nice. I personally think loop bumpers, like the 1970 Charger and 1971 GTX & Roadrunner, look great when painted. To my eyes, it makes the car look more sleek.

Bee-autiful, welcome from Alberta, Canada!