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As a temporary fix go to your local parts store and get a can of R134 with the built in gauge. Follow the instructions on the can and it will start cooling again. This a only a band aid ... you probably have a leak and need to find/repair that.
I'm a fellow Zonie so I know first hand the cooling issues and frustrations you are experiencing. From your 7% description I'll assume you live somewhere near Camp Verde.
A few years back I fought this same issue on an older Non-Mopar car with a newly rebuilt engine. No matter what I changed it...
Ron ... I have a Vintage Air unit ready to install in my 64. I have installed the VA system in another car and it worked perfectly. If you don't want heat just don't connect the heater hoses ... it will not affect your AC at all unless you need to defrost your windows during our brutal winters.
Excellent points on the drier & expansion valve ... I had forgotten about those.
Ron ... one other thing to consider is your electric fans. Do you have a thermostatically controlled setup? You might want to look into a trinary switch so he fan's will come on when the AC is being used.
Ron ... if you just convert to R you will probably be OK as long as it holds a charge of course.
There isn't anyone I can personally recommend here in town. When I worked on my other cars in the past (including the Polara) I just bit the bullet and replaced the entire evap with a new one from...
Ron,
From my perspective it will really come down to the condition of your 48 year old in-dash unit. I would highly recommend getting a professional to take a close look at it and get a reasonable idea if it needs any immediate repairs or not before going too far. A few basic diagnostic steps...
I fought a similar problem years ago. I replaced everything that I could but nothing fixed the issue.
I finally determined that the head bolts were bottoming out inside the block and not allowing the head gasket to seal properly. This resulted in combustion gases getting into the coolant...
Years ago I fought an engine that would overheat despite replacing everything. I pressure checked the cooling system several times. Out of sheer frustration I finally picked up one of these ...
UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester
Turns out 1 stinking head bolt was slightly longer than the rest...
Get your radiator repaired.
Yes ... copper is almost twice as good at heat conduction than aluminum. The coefficient of conduction:
Silver - 100
Copper - 92
Aluminum - 50
Iron - 11
Ideally a silver radiator is the way to go but way too expensive to be viable.
It's very true that they do not have an exact fit kit for the older b-bodies I am going with the Gen II Super Cooler HC. I chose this as my 64 Polara does not have a dedicated defrost vents so the Gen iV would not work … plus it’s kinda big.
I installed a Vintage Air (Compac II) in a Datsun...
The under dash portion of your A/C work will be MORE fun than you think. It always is when laying on your back.
You might want to look at this setup ... it's a "Perfect Fit" from Classic Auto Air designed to fit 66-67 B-bodies and use all of the existing controls...
Remove your gauge pod and console. Remove the A/C lines, heater hoses, air vent ducting, vacuum controls etc. The evap unit is bolted directly to the firewall. I will eventually "slide" out of there. PS ... you won't have a heater any more.
If you want to stop the heat for the summer just bypass the heater core entirely. Take one of the heater hoses off at the engine ... disconnect the other heater hose at the heater core / firewall and loop it back to the engine.
How's everything in Triangle? I was stationed at Quantico in the...
Thanks for th info Red. After more research I have decided to keep the existing system and get the unit refurbed. While I'm sure I could get a newer unit to fit and function but the controls would be problematic. I've decided I want to keep the interor looking as original as possible so...