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Problem Solved - Actually a couple years ago. I rebuilt my center carb again, let it soak a long time, then used compressed air to blow out all the passages. One one particular hole, a big "glop of oily goo" came out, so my idle circuit(s) was blocked off.
Related - I now have promax plates...
Not a bad idea. I believe you can still buy a fiberglass '70 hood with the '69 A-12 scoop on it....I think I saw it online somewhere recently. Maybe you could put on an air grabber hood instead? Your car, your choice
Congratulations! Well, the value goes down for sure but a little less if you can PROVE the engine/trans were out of another 440+6 car. I'm not sure, but if you can do that unless you know of an A12 VIN registry with your block/trans VIN listed???? How much will it lower the value?.... no...
I've wondered about that. I mean, the carburetors are using fuel too, from the gas tank, and that's burning inside the engine with the nitrous too. I'm sure it doesn't hurt to throw in some race fuel with the stand alone system.
There's a guy in my neighborhood running a 351W with a big nitrous system (250hp?) running one of those. It's an interesting idea. I think it would be a really good idea if you could "purge" the fuel somehow when you switched over to it or the first 1-2 seconds of nitrous will be running on...
That is sweet! As we discussed, I like the option of a 2-stage system. The BIG think to look out for is the clearance of the nitrous/fuel fitting on the back of the center carb vs. the front of the rear carb....it is TIGHT in there, especially with a nitrous/fuel line running into the front of...
Dang... I'm SURE you miss that car. Could you track it down by the VIN number off an old title? If not, then maybe build another one! I'm a Roadrunner guy, but I love the looks of those Super Bees!!!!!
Yep, I just learned this myself.....3-speed wiper needed for clearance with a 6-pack & I'm 99% sure for Hemi's too for air cleaner clearance. Now that I think of it, I think you'd need a 3-speed wiper system for any airgrabber/ramcharger hood.
I'm sure you're right. Wish i knew exactly what was taken off the block face of the heads. I believe there's a formula for block face vs intake face milling....but i can only guess....which is why i only shaved 0.020" off the intake manifold. It's easier to take more off than put it back on.
Well thanks everyone...... I need a good machinist. My block was "supposedly" milled .040" due a a "very uneven deck height" 25 yrs. ago & the heads were milled some unknown amount... and intake face of the heads looks OEM. Since the motor was together I shaved .020" off the intake faces & the...
I've always heard aluminum and iron 440 six pack intakes are the same except for the metal. You can buy paper gaskets for the intakes (69 I think) that "sandwich" the valley pan. I've never been able to fit the paper gaskets on my iron intake which makes me wonder.....are the aluminum ones...
I'd keep checking. If I'm thinking of the correct part, they are reproduced. 2nd option --> if you're is custom anyway, maybe cut a slice out & re-weld it to make it shorter?
I like your idea of the repair & pictures would help. Maybe you could build up the area with fiberglass & then just use the fiberglass resin as your "bondo" (no glass mat for final coat). "Bondo" is also fiberglass, but with A LOT of filler in it. The pure liquid resin is harder to sand for...
Oh yeah... I forgot the 292/509 cam is borderline for piston-to-valve clearance too (good thing YOU remembered). I've always liked those triple-pumper setups, but have never had a hot enough motor to use them effectively.