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Hello All, With the back order situation I've been trying to source more parts here. I need driver or lesser quality bumpers for a 67 plymouth belvedere. The front parking lights are in the bumper. I also need the molding for the rocker panel below the doors.

I'm not picky. If it mounts the same way with the two studs going through the firewall and the bolt going into the kick panel and the cable connects I'm good.

I need a parking brake / E brake pedal assembly. Mine does bot ratchet and lock.

It does have the spring on the handle. The dead spring in question is supposed to force the latch down on the ratcheting mechanism . There just isn't a spring and I can't figure out where it would have landed.

Hello All, So the parking brake on my 67 Belvedere does not ratchet down and stay there. My driveway has a nasty slant so this is important to me. No one seems to repop these and their isn't a diagram to rebuild it in the fsm. This doesnt seem to be a popular problem because I dont see anything...

I'm using the factory HP manifolds and they sit really far above the valve covers. I'm concerned how the r&m loom will mount and get it above.

Thanks that's what I was assuming. Now to find an aftermarket source.

This is my first b body of this 66-67 generation. How is the parking brake mechanism supposed to work? Mine doesn't ratchet or really stay down. I was told to pull up on the handle while depressing the foot lever, and then release the handle to make the lever stay. If I do that it kind of maybe...

I have a 67 Belvedere 2. I'm probably the cars 12th owner and the wiring has been worked on by fools. When I move around the dash harness I loose all power... I want to start over. I'd like a new dash and engine harness complete with the correct plugs ( ignition switch ext..) have you had good...

Can anyone ID this for me? The number on the rear face looks to be 391006.

So how did Chrysler make the smog 440 low compression. Is it just pistons or is the rod a different length too?

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm going to put this crank in a 78 block.

In my research I saw reports of 413 cranks having strange flex plate mounts and the trans end being to long and sticking into the trans to far. I'm looking to put the 413 crank in a late model 440. Can anyone tell me if this picture of a 413 crank looks like I'd have a problem?

What year ish did they make the change?

This 383 is my first big block. It's overdue for a rebuild and a bit damaged. I'm Thinking why build it when 440s are generally easy to find. So my question is about balance. The 440 I'm looking at is a cast crank stock short block. What do I need to do? ? Cast crank balancer and what else?

I sold the car without the seat. These things are rare, I don't want to toss it but it's taking up needed space in the garage. Power Seat, Double Springs, Rips and tares on drivers side but the innards aren't exposed, just the flower outer stuff is damaged. Vancouver, WA

Agreed. Pretty sure the valves have sunken into the head.it does explain why it didn't pull very hard.

I forgot to say. I did the oil trick and it didn't come up. I'll be removing the heads once I get back in town and taking them to a shop. Or buying a cheap 440 on CL and taking my chances. Can't go wrong with more displacement.

I had exhaust leaks anyway so I just took the HP manifolds off. Life got much easier then. But the test didn't give me good news.

I have a 67 belvedere with a 383 and the HP exhaust manifolds. How the frick do I manage to get a compression tester into the spark plug holes. Do you have a recommendation on testers that allow for almost 0 clearance and can be done blind since the manifold is in the way. My testers all have...