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Mine is in an unheated 30x40 shop ....I just ignore the noise....after a while I don't notice it.
The only problem I have is if I need it in the winter at -20 I have to put a heater nearby to heat the oil to get it to start properly.
If you have spark, fuel and compression with no start or run that brings up that the timing chain may have jumped a few notches.....been there a couple
My take on this is that originally the engine was modified to run counterclockwise as a lot or most marine engines do.
I have seen 440's modified in this fashion. The difference being the camshaft of course.
I use a pickle fork on my air chisel ....there are tools that work the opposite of a gear puller that pushes from the top to push the taper out of the knuckle. They work quite well.
All depends on what is in the air around the connectors.
Dielectric grease is a good solution but a bit messy for me....I use Deoxit 5...useing a q-tip to put a very light coating on the blades of the connector.
My 71 bee has had then on it for 50 years no problems....I think it would depend on the rust conditions and how much driving. Havent driven mine much lately tho
If that is a replacement rear end I would bet your next paycheck it is metric....I would look into that first above all.....metrics show up in the wierdest places....I have run into that myself. GL
I don't know if this will help but I had the same problem on my 4x4 and it turned out that the drive shaft was assembled wrong....take the shaft out and turn it 180 deg. and put it back in and try it....if that's not it take it out and change one or both of the uni's 180 deg. one at a time. For...
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The last time I had a problem like this the cam chain had jumped a couple of notches...had spark and gas to every cyl. but no run....make sure you don't have one of those hinky plastic tooth cam sprockets...