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I’m looking online, and where do I find these please? Layson’s has a bunch listed, but not sure what I’m looking for. Mega Parts doesn’t have them, Classic has a 1/8 flanged acorn thread cutting nut.

Any idea what thread the right is? Curious if I can go to hardware store and get what I need?

How do these 69 side reflectors install? Tried tightening the nut but it just starts spinning and doesn’t tighten. DadsBee, I followed your thread, but doesn’t help with the obvious I’m missing. Or am I using the wrong nuts? I didn’t see any 69 specific ones.

Letting cure rest of today and will compound it tomorrow

Yes, it’s a patch repair on the lower door corners. I’ll get some better tape and step each layer out. Really hope I can find the soft edge tape locally tomorrow.

Trying to figure out if I can use 3M soft edge tape for exterior panel patch repairs. Sounds like it’s supposed to be used in door jambs and such, but I need to find something that will prevent these tape hard f’ing lines I keep getting. Fixed some rusts spots in the door exterior corners...

Oh duh, use the Weber. Brilliant!

Lol, the wife would kill me over the fumes! “Damnit! Are you painting again in the basement?!” I have a heat gun I can try some more.

Last time I listen to a restoration book. Book recommended it, but didn’t mention the tackiness, only to let it dry a few days.

This paint sucks, still tacky and crappy to touch. Can’t imagine trying to install the arms with this sticky, so stripping it and starting over with a normal Eastwood primer.

I checked the arms last night and they are 99% touchable with no tackiness. Really wasn’t thrilled to strip and start over.

Did it finally dry to the touch or stay tacky?

Has anyone used the Eastwood HD Anti-rust spray paint, and if so, how long until dry. Can says 2-4 days, and the website says it’s an oily/waxy spray, so curious if it will finely dry/cure. Sprayed my LCAs two days ago and still very tacky. Hope it drys or I may just strip it and prime with...

My black Super Bee has a white stripe, and it's ok, but I'm really keen to remove and replace with a red stripe. From the factory, the car was B5 blue with a black stripe, but when it was restored by someone else, it was painted black; so I'm pretty much free to do whatever stripe I want now...

Here's some pictures. The first picture is laying on the ground, looking at the inside of the quarter panel, and white arrow points to where I can see the light coming through from the trunk. Guessing somehow I need to seal up that big gap between the two panels. And then a photo from inside...

My '69 Super Bee has new rear side quarters on it, and since I've had the car, the trunk continues to accumulate sand and dust. I thought I found and sealed all the gaps, but I discovered a massive one this past weekend. I rested a shop light against the left side fender inside the trunk, shut...

Yea, I thought the driver side door issue was fixed, but yesterday it took me three tries to get the door closed. For all I know it could be tired hinges. But the car does feel firmer for sure.

The muffler shop had a drive on lift so we did it that way. Sub frame connectors successfully welded in and only charged $90 for the work. But of course I gave the guy extra $$ on the side. Thanks for all the advice!!

Yea, when the Bee's on a lift I can open the doors, just can't close them afterwards. I will see if the muffler shop with the good welding guys have a drive on lift and will use that method. But even with the Bee sitting on the ground on all 4 tires the driver side door can be finicky...

So I saw in last month's Mopar Muscle where they installed subframe connectors on an A-body while the car was on a lift supported by the frame. One of the picture captions stated that the car body was aligned with shims under the frame lifting points until the doors could be opened and closed...