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Thanks

Need a part number for the smaller pinion bearing, at the spline section of the gear, for a 742-case 8-3/4. Search as I may, I can’t seem to find a P#. Thanks-

It does run a lokar kick down cable. Seems to shift and kick down on time, but I did not really check that component at all. I’ll tell him to watch things closely. thanks!

Update: after the band adjustments, reverse works perfectly. In reverse, it must have been just free-wheeling the drum? Told the owner that loose bands to the point of not having reverse is likely a sign that the transmission is just plain worn out. Nothing broken, but probably needs new...

Found the band adjustments were way loose somehow. Re-adjusted to spec (72”-lbs - 2 turns); and the lever extends about half of what it did prior. Front band also on the loose side, re-adjusted that while I was at it. I’ll button it back up today and see if that makes a difference, and run...

Been busy couple of weeks for me. Had to spend all last week and weekend moving my Mother in law into a home and taking care of all the details and legalities that go along with that. Then this week I’ve been in Dallas on a business trip. Haven’t had a moment to get into the garage. Im...

Thanks Doug.

Doug, Can you go into more detail on how to perform this test and where the “rear servo test port” is? I’ll run this test, and try to get it back together and fluid back in to run through the gears. We did not try shifting it by hand while running before hooking the shifter back up, but I can...

Been a while since I’ve posted here at FBBO, but I’m in need of some help…. a buddy of mine has a gorgeous 65 B-Post street/strip HotRod. Pretty standard 440/727 setup. last year he had a shop replace the converter. When he got it back, the shifter (cable B&M unit) wasn’t adjusted properly...

What would bolting up a standard port intake result in? Can it be done? Can you port it to fit to a certain extent? Specifically, ai would be asking about an M1 single Plane.

The low-deck M1 and an Eddy RPM are the same ht. both will likely require a drop base air cleaner and limited room above the carb. At your RPM range, the RPM will be measurably better. I recently made the switch From the RPM to the M1, and even in a drag race application, shifting at 6500...

I opted for the Street/Strip piece.

It may run 11.50-ish first pass; but You’re gonna have to drag an anchor to get that combo to settle at 11.50. More cubes, more intake, more head, more cam, and more converter than what’s in my sled.... better start planning for the roll bar.

Dang!! You’re not messing around! Should be deep into the 10-second zone. Nice! Can’t wait to see the time slip post!!!!

Sounds great! A little more info on the build??

What do you know about the engine? Could it have a gear drive? That’s sort of what it sounds like to me.

I probably pushed my stock driveline WAY farther than I should have. My car weighs 3870 and runs 11.2x’s, turning 6500 rpm at the stripe. This year I finally took some good advice from a professional and ordered a 3” Strange unit from Dr Diff. I’ll feel a lot safer this year, that’s for sure...

Just as Doug said; when the pinion is at the correct depth, the rest of it comes together pretty easy. I got the backlash to just shy of .008, which I figured was a little less than what I ultimately wanted. Ran a pattern check, and the markings confirmed my suspicion. Pushed the backlash out...

Good news: measured with a caliper and it all makes sense to my pea-sized brain now. Doug was correct, I wasn’t measuring from a zero’d point. In fact I wasn’t measuring anything at all . How it randomly ended up at the exact number as my shim package will be chalked up as the big guy...

I’ll go back and measure with a caliper instead of the dial indicator and see if things change. I know I also could just throw this tool in the bin and start looking at contact patterns, letting them tell me what to do. But I’m a bit obsessive and I want to understand this tool and what it’s...