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That's how I see the constant hammering about "crap caps". We get it. He doesn't like them. Other people do, though, and constantly beating that drum can be insulting to those people. That was the only point I was trying to make. Not that he had to like them all of a sudden... just stop with the...
Get over the steelie hate already. Lots of cars came that way, and I like the look. Frankly I think steelies and caps look better on a 68-70 than rallies do. Down to business, no frills.
We get that you don't like em. You can stop posting it every single time a photo shows up with them. We got it.
I was going to say it could be a draw issue...I have HID lows and LED highs and mine work fine...but I also have a late-model relay so that would have been zero help.
Glad you got it sorted! (and 6PKRTSE, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks his front end is going to fall off when those...
I did this job on my 70 last winter when I rebuilt my front end. Naturally, since I was replacing the bars with thicker ones, mine practically fell out.
As noted above, these bars are loaded in a twisting motion (hence, "torsion"). If you've ever twisted a tree branch to remove it, you know...
It's not a 70 bumper. The 70 grille ends are rounded; the '68 is squared off. The body isn't "thick" enough to be a '70 bumper; it's the same dimension as a '68.
It's a '68 nose, with the bumper shaved.
Bolts on with existing holes in the valance
There's probably a bracket to hold the upper edge but mine is fine without anything besides the 2 lower bolts.
Pretty sure mine (OEM) looks like this, with the trapezoid crease:
Front License Plate Bracket 1970 Charger
I'll dig the car out of hibernation (winter salt on the roads now) enough to get you a photo tomorrow, for mounting.
So, I have a 3 speed wiper car. 3 speed switch. When I got it...it had a 2 speed motor in it. I recently changed it to a 3 speed motor...but now, the wipers will turn on at random, and never turn off until I shut off the key. I've got them unplugged at the bulkhead now, since that plug only runs...
Looks like OAR makes two versions of the 5/16" unit, one around $60, and one ("stainless") around $55. Stainless one looks to have a cheaper sending unit setup though...
The "regular" one:
and the "stainless" one:
Both are 5/16" single outlet, both made by OER...but stainless is $5 cheaper...
Yeah mine's a visible trail down the BACK of the box, from the steering shaft up top. My pump has a slightly damp area behind and below the pulley shaft, but the box is SOAKED. I'd thought it was a hose, until I got it on the lift yesterday and looked around a little better.
I'll try the stop...
Well, I had the Charger on a lift yesterday to check out my fuel sender and while it was up, I checked out my steering to see what was leaking there - I typically have to top off the steering every second or third tank of fuel. Looking at it, there's a small leak at the pump (around the pulley...
Welp...it's the sender. Unplug, gauge drops to E. Plug in, spikes past F to the pin.
Who's a good vendor? Fuel system on the car is only 4 years old...
My honest suspicion on mine is, a piece of the rusted trunk floor fell onto the sender and is shorting it out. It was working great the first day of Carlisle. Second day, it worked/didn't work/worked/didn't work, third day (and still today) it simply pegs full. Only thing that changed in that...
Sweeeet thank you. I was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank. Since the gauge went wonky I've been filling it every time I take it out...hopefully I can access it in the car tomorrow!
....I really need to get a lift at the house....
So. My fuel gauge used to work, now it pegs full. I'm guessing a short somewhere, grounding the line and sending full voltage to the gauge. All other gauges work fine.
Where is it on the tank, do I have to drop the tank to get to it? Gonna take it to work tomorrow and toss it on a lift after...