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Thanks for that. I'll double check the studs to be sure..

Ok, but would that limit oil flow to the passenger side?

So, when I primed the oiling system, I saw plenty of oil on the driver's side. About half of that on the passenger side. Yes, I rotated the engine. My question is, does a big block have a pipe plug in a weird place like the small block that has a plug in the distributor bore?

If you put a level on the carburetor flange, it should be at 0. The tailshaft should be up to 3 degrees tail down. I would get that corrected before doing anything with the driveshaft, or differential. Tremec has an app that will show you which part of the engine/drivetrain is out of spec. It...

I ended up removing the washers, and shaving the bolt heads down. I made sure that the bolts would sit flush on the cam gear. Thanks for all the help.

Too bad you aren't closer. I have a driveshaft in Florida.

I used several HF moving dollies, and scrap wood. I bought 2 large, and 2 small dollies. I put a small one inside the larger one. Then attached 4x4, and 2x4 wood to cradle the K member. The other dollie is to support the transmission. With the wheels off of the car, I could reach the K member...

If the gauge tells you to look further, you'll be dropping the pan. So I would check the bearings. I had the problem with zero oil pressure on hard braking. I fixed it with a Milodon oil pan. So, consider a baffled oil pan.

:popcorn::popcorn:

I ordered thinner washers from Summit. They are. 027 thinner than the washers that came with the bolts. If they don't work, I will do the button heads. That 45 ft lbs is scary to me too. But that's what the instructions said.

The torque specs are 45 pounds for the ARP bolts. I wonder how much you could torque those button heads.

Do you use the washers that came in the kit, or did you use thinner washers?

I'm using a Comp Cams button, that looks like yours. It is the stock timing cover. I notched the button to clear the diameter of the bolts, and washers, but they are too tall. ARP said I could run it without the washers, as long as the bolts seat flat, or chamfer the cam gear if necessary. I can...

My new question is: On my 505 stroker. I'm running a hydraulic roller cam. I fit the cam button, but the 3 cam bolt heads are too tall, and hit the timing cover. Is there a shorter 12 point head than the 244-1001 I have now? I called ARP, and they were able to find thinner washers, but not a...

Thanks everyone for your input. I will go back at it again. It helps to know that I need to use the roller lifter. And I will go on the cam websites and get their directions. I called bullet cams, and they were able to straighten me out. Thanks for all the help.

I didn't do that. I put the 0 on the keyway, and the other 0, by the teeth in line with the cam dot. So i think I'm good there.

I am trying to learn to degree my cam, but it's making my head hurt. It's a 505 engine, not that it matters. I am working with the short block that already has the rotating assembly, done by the machine shop. I asked if they would degree the cam, but he said no. HMMM. anyway, I did the finding...

First, does it vibrate when in neutral, or park? If so, you're looking in the wrong place. If it does not vibrate in park, as was already said, download the tremec app. I used it on my truck, and it worked awesome. Unless the car was seriously screwed with, the trans angle should be fine.

I have some from my FT builds, but, I was concerned that it would slowly drip off, considering how long its taking me to finish it.

That is the other lube that I thought he might have used. I don't know for sure, since he said it was a secret. Is that what you use?