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When I took my Hemi apart, only one of the rods has a squirt hole. The other 7 do not. Of course, I would assume that these are not the original rods to the engine.
Just spoke with Ray Barton, he can fix it no problem. I'm in the process of disassembling the whole engine. It appears that the cylinders are coming in at .010 over, but there are no marks on the pistons. Time will tell what I have here. When this is done, it's going to be one nice hemi car.
I found the oil pressure problem- too much clearance in the lifter bores. Oil pours from the bores when I run the oil pump. It has about .008-.009" clearance- just about enough for oversize lifters if they're still available. I have a call into Ray Barton to see what they can do.
Got it out today, thanks for all your suggestions. Note the hardware store head bolts, whoever did it last didn't even use hardened washers. I'll get it into the stand tomorrow and start work. It also has what look like sleeves in the passenger side lifter bores, what's that all about...
Making progress today. I can't believe how easily this car comes apart. Had the heat tubes removed in no time. Even the exhaust pipe bolts came loose with no problem. So far, many fasteners were not torqued at all. I'll be curious to see what I find when I get inside the engine.
I don't have the capability to remove it from the bottom. And yes, everything will be marked for balance purposes. The only issue I see offhand is getting access to two of the bell housing bolts on the passenger side that are under the heat tubes. I haven't studied it from under the car to...
I'm getting ready to pull the hemi on my '66 Coronet. It is an automatic car. I want to leave the transmission in place, and just disconnect the converter from the flex plate and leave it behind. The heat tubes are installed on the engine. Just looking for any shortcuts or pitfalls to avoid.
I wouldn't block that heat passage on a street-driven car. It will act as if the accelerating pump is not working. The easiest way to clean it is to block the outlet of the RH manifold and take the car for a short drive. When the blue smoke stops, the passage is clean. Your choke will also...
When I had my '69 Dart, it came with 90W gear oil from the factory. It shifted better with ATF, but you could hear gear rollover when it was hot. What worked best was Ford Tractor hydraulic oil, which was used on their internal wet brakes. It shifted fine when cold and was still quiet.
A vacuum leak generally won't give you a rich idle. A rich idle with a vacuum leak will be a fast idle that you can't slow down. Being that we're talking about Holley's here, I would start looking for a leaking power valve(s).
There is no need to replace the sleeve unless you accidentally over-tighten the pinion nut on reassembly. If the rear end was operating quietly, mark the nut on the pinion shaft and return it to the exact same location when you're done.
Correct. The linkage also controls the hydraulic pressure in the transmission. Without it connected, the transmission thinks the engine is at idle power only.
If you ever suspect a manifold leak, one way to verify it is to plug the crankcase vents and put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube. If it pulls a vacuum, you have a leaky intake gasket. I learned that the hard way on a 427 Ford when I was a kid.