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Pulling 426 hemi- any tips?

rscurtis

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St. Thomas PA
I'm getting ready to pull the hemi on my '66 Coronet. It is an automatic car. I want to leave the transmission in place, and just disconnect the converter from the flex plate and leave it behind. The heat tubes are installed on the engine. Just looking for any shortcuts or pitfalls to avoid.
 
jack up the rear of the car.makes it much easyer to get over the rad cross member.as high as you can get it.
 
take the hood off completely....mark before loosening/removing bolts....spray paint a converter bolt so as to align it later...or mark it somehow
 
Put it on a pallet and I'll send you my shipping address. :rolling:

I'm going with the lift the car off the K-Member/engine as a complete unit....works for me on the 440 engines.:headbang:
 
I don't have the capability to remove it from the bottom. And yes, everything will be marked for balance purposes. The only issue I see offhand is getting access to two of the bell housing bolts on the passenger side that are under the heat tubes. I haven't studied it from under the car to see if they're accessible from the bottom. If worse comes to worse, I'll have to remove the heat tubes first.

This isn't my first rodeo, I've been working on cars since I was a kid and I used to own a tool rental store, so fixing things is second nature by now. Thanks so far for all your comments.

- - - Updated - - -

Put it on a pallet and I'll send you my shipping address.
You'll want it when it's finished. I have to find a low oil pressure problem, fix a couple of oil leaks (rear main seal), install an original OEM solid-lifter cam, and repair the choke stove and heat riser on the RH manifold. Other than that, it runs great, no smoke, noise, or blowby. It also has a lot of incorrect hardware in it too- like the head bolts that I can see so far.
 
Making progress today. I can't believe how easily this car comes apart. Had the heat tubes removed in no time. Even the exhaust pipe bolts came loose with no problem. So far, many fasteners were not torqued at all. I'll be curious to see what I find when I get inside the engine.
 
This is one way to do it if you have access to a hoist....



or do it like my first time around....



:eusa_dance:
 
This is one way to do it if you have access to a hoist....



or do it like my first time around....



:eusa_dance:

I known guys that have done this without the lift. If you got the floor space go for it!
 
Got it out today, thanks for all your suggestions. Note the hardware store head bolts, whoever did it last didn't even use hardened washers. I'll get it into the stand tomorrow and start work. It also has what look like sleeves in the passenger side lifter bores, what's that all about? It also does not have a hemi-spec. torque converter, but it drives just fine.
 

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I found the oil pressure problem- too much clearance in the lifter bores. Oil pours from the bores when I run the oil pump. It has about .008-.009" clearance- just about enough for oversize lifters if they're still available. I have a call into Ray Barton to see what they can do.
 
Just spoke with Ray Barton, he can fix it no problem. I'm in the process of disassembling the whole engine. It appears that the cylinders are coming in at .010 over, but there are no marks on the pistons. Time will tell what I have here. When this is done, it's going to be one nice hemi car.
 
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