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ok guys, my mind has gone blank.. i to replace the drive shaft on my 72 satty, right now i have the small u-joint up, and a " bastard" u joint in the rear. i want to put the bigger u joints from and rear. what do i need to tell shop that will build it , i know i need a new tail shaft for...

isnt there a bolt that goes down through the top of the gear selector that holds the kick down cable in place ?

does anyone know where the kickdown linkage hooks up in a Winters Sidewinder shifter ? I still have the factory kick down, i dont see where i can hook it up

currently have a B & M ratchet shifter, something broke inside, now stuck in 1st gear , any suggestions on replacement? 72 charger 383 / 727 this was a column shift car, what is involved in converting to slap stick.. I have been told have I to weld in some brackets ? not sure i want to get...

i had a 8 3/4 rear built a couple years ago, went with 3:55 sure grip, receipt says he used Motive 3:55 / 489 case gears US or Motive. it doesnt howl ,but it sings at hwy speed , is this normal ??

need a pass side exhaust manifold for a 71 RR 383.. anyone have one they will part with ??

less than 1000 miles on the motor, and freeze plug cracked and leaking like crazy ! of course i have to pull the headers to get to it, and the Rona Run 2020 is less than a week away

1970 satty, 318, upgraded to hei box and dist, now car is " sluggish" and backfires through exhaust under power.. messing with timing, didnt help.. any thoughts not mine, trying to help out a friend

well, I just moved and had to have my son's 89 D-150 transported up, I just put a new crate 318 in it, has 700 miles. transporter could not get to where we live, so, wife and daughter went to meet him, on the way home, lower radiator hose blew.. daughter did not know the temp gauge on dash...

I just wanted to throw out a big thank you to member Vance.Dykes. he took time to talk to me about some tuning issues I had posted questions on, and gave me some idea's to try before I drove all the way to him to help with tuning. he took his time and explained things so I could understand...

my "slap shifter" is not working right after recent engine install. pull back in to 1, slap it .. goes into 2nd, but will not go into drive without pushing button pull back to 2nd, slap, will go into drive hanging between 2 and drive only when starting from 1st gear

just installed a 440 build by a "professional builder " when I went to pick up motor, it pegged the oil pressure gauge, blew out rear main seal and oil filter ( was on run stand ) . builder says he put a new oil pump on and fixed read main and replaced oil filter, I went back picked up motor...

does anyone have a part # for a "bastard " u-joint for mating a small yoke to a large yoke ??

Just got this from my engine builder !! i can almost hear it and smell it !! should be picking it up by next week end !

cant seem to find one for a BB mopar, can find for SB and any gm or ford .. any suggestions

so, i have a new 440 coming , builder says 515 HP.. i know very little about carbs, was looking at Demon 750 speed demon carb, builder says 850 carb is a better match, and what about torque straps and poly lok engine mounts?? I have never had a motor with this mchh power and so i'm not sure...

any suggestions?? 72 Sat sebring plus, 400 4 bbl, slightly built, 8 3/4 3.55 sure grip.. i'm thinking 2000 /2100 stall .. any suggestions on which one you use? brand / stall speed? i drive in the city a lot, so i think 2400 + is not suited well for stop and go...

Hi all, so i finally got my new rear end.. going from a 8 1/4 2:73 ( ?) to 8 3/4 3:55 sure grip, how do i re-calibrate the speedometer ???

so, when i run a compression check on a 72 400 2bbl, what should the avg psi be per cyl???

who can offer some options to get a little more power out of a 72 400 2bbl? on a tight budget, have thought about a simple 4bbl carb / intake upgrade and maybe a mild cam, but got scarred off a little, was told that kick down linkage is a night mare to change to 4bbl. any suggestions? i dont...