What should I be aware of when changing from stock stamped rocker arms to 1.6 roller rockers? I have 915 cast heads for now but maybe Edelbrock aluminum later. Thanks!
1.6 Roller Rockers and Big Block Heads
- Thread starter ykf7b0
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IQ52
Well-Known Member
1st Consider......Thousands of people do without, you could too, but recommend contact B3RE for rocker arm relocation kit.
Disassemble entire system, clean and deburr all parts, lube and reassemble system.
Check for pushrod to intake port wall clearance.
Check piston to valve clearance.
Check retainer to seal clearance.
Check for coil bind.
Get quality hold down clamps and studs.
Space the rocker arms side to side over the valve tips with shims.
Check rocker arm to spring and retainer clearance.
System will require new pushrods.
Measure for correct pushrod length.
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Check roller travel over valve tips through a full cycle useing lighter mockup springs.
They do sound like a hassle and I wouldn't bother with them if not for the future aluminum head swap. I would rather have the adjustable rockers instead of trying to custom fit pushrods and gain a little lift and less friction in the process.
RT K_line
Well-Known Member
If you are planning on the Edelbrock head you will need to elongate the pushrod hole because they are not open like the stock ones are. I have the RPMs and sold my 1.6 rockers because I didn't want to disassemble my engine to gain clearance needed. Good luck with your build.
Shorthorse
Well-Known Member
Well stated by IQ52. Before you proceed, do your homework on "valve train geometry". There's more to just new rockers than you think. It might be prudent to wait until you get the aluminum heads.
Absolutely. Using a little rear end marking compound on the top of the valve stem helps also.
Absolutely. Using a little rear end marking compound on the top of the valve stem helps also.
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
Watch out for shim stack when you install them. One shim here, another there then you bolt them down the rockers bind, gotta grind the spacers or hold downs etc etc. lots of time and a pain in the *** to get right but I do it all the time because you don't have many options with aftermarket heads and cams
IQ52
Well-Known Member
The rocker arms? I lot of people buy them and bolt them on. Then they wonder why we charge so damn much to build an engine.
We are about to do a set of iron heads for a 440 and I'm just about ready to document what we actually do to a set of our iron heads. It sounds simple, a little porting here, new valve guides, hardened seats and a valve job. You.......have.......no........idea.
We are about to do a set of iron heads for a 440 and I'm just about ready to document what we actually do to a set of our iron heads. It sounds simple, a little porting here, new valve guides, hardened seats and a valve job. You.......have.......no........idea.
miller
Well-Known Member
They have their purpose. But, you better know exactly what your doing with them!
moper
Well-Known Member
Jim's right on the steps & on the ignorance of many enthusiasts. We do differ in approach as I consider B3's kit as a fix for a problem that should not exist. I have yet to need them, but for good or bad I confess I have not had the geometry issues that others have run into. It may simply be I have not needed to push the envelope far enough to hit them.
Miller's right on the "purpose" for aftermarket parts. At some point, if you want to go faster and have better than factory - you will have to address head, valve job, and valvetrain issues.
Miller's right on the "purpose" for aftermarket parts. At some point, if you want to go faster and have better than factory - you will have to address head, valve job, and valvetrain issues.
The reason I had Jim put 1.6s on my trickflows was I wanted to max my lift while keeping the duration as short as possible. Jim knows his stuff and wont steer you wrong. If it were easy everybody would do it, without problems. I admit to being one of the ignorant ones in my youth, big cam & 1.6s with stock heads. Result bent pushrods & a wiped lobe.
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
I used the Crane Gold roller rockers 1.5 to 1 ratio, with my Eddy heads and there was enough clearance where the push rods go thru the heads. So you may want to consider 1.5s instead of 1.6s if the push rods don't clear the heads.
RT K_line
Well-Known Member
I've been using the ductile iron adjustable rockers for a long time now since I switched to solid lifters and now solid roller cams. I haven't had any issues with them on 2 different builds. I've been thinking about getting a set of 1.5 roller rockers but will probably wait since I have no problems with this set up. Don't fix whats not broke in my opinion.
Garys1969RR
Well-Known Member
I got a set of roller rockers with my used Eddy heads, and I was able to use the push rods that came with the set up, when I put them on my 440. I did have a valve job done, and the spring height set. Now I have an extra set of ductile iron rockers and push rods, that were on the 906 heads. For some reason, these push rods are slightly shorter than the ones that came with the Crane Gold rockers. They may have milled the 906 heads a bit, requiring shorter push rods. I have about 2 threads showing below the rocker arm, which I think is about right.
Thanks Gary! I have decided to minimize possible issues that might occur and go with 1.5's when the purchase of Edelbrock heads is complete. I'm looking hard at Mancini's adjustable roller rockers.
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