• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1 Wire Alternator / MSD

68bbdy

Member
Local time
2:27 PM
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Location
marietta ga
I have been having problems with my charging system on my car. first i had a regular alternator and the battary would keep dying so i figured out that it wasn't getting 12 volts to the battary so i went through every thing and could not find anything wrong so i decided to put a 1 wire alternator on and i also have MSD 6AL box , Distributar , and Coil . My wiring harness is all new and i installed a updated voltage regulator . So my ? is what am i doing wrong or what do i need to change.

Thanks : Jamie

IMG_0022.jpg


IMG_0023.jpg


IMG_0024.jpg


View attachment 327361
 
Sounds like you have a drain on the battery. Could be the 6AL, could be a stereo if you've added one. I guess you've actually checked the output of the alternator at the alternator AND at the battery to confirm 1) the alternator is charging and 2) it isn't getting to the battery?

What is that box mounted on the alternator?
 
Its part of the 1 wire alternator. All the factory hookups are connected is there something i need to disconnect or is the way i have it ok.
 
Also a word of caution,
Is that some of that high strand clear coated stereo 4 gauge cable on the back of that alternator going to the starter? If it is, be careful. I have seen some of that high tech stuff melt in engine compartments. Also, in the back right corner of the engine compartment behind the head, is that a NOS line that looks close to that cable? Steel braid can work through wiring insulation faster than a hacksaw, so make sure there is no contact. Nothing makes a day more exciting than your engine compartment go thfffftttt. (Been there, done that)

Rev.
 
No sterio . And yes on the wire. Ive checked it and its ok ill put something between the two to keep it from doing that. thanks
 
Just because you have new wiring doesn't warranty that you have full power circulation!Check each wire for conductivity with an ohmmeter first.I found that problem on a 71cuda conv.383.
 
Ok i checked out all the wires and they seem fine .

This is whats happening. I start the car it runs fine it warms up and the becool duel fans kick on and it changes the idel of the car and if im driving it it starts to break up at low rpm and the volt guage reads 13+ so im almost positive that low voltage is not the problem. I checked carb i checked for vac leaks at intake and did a leak down test on the heads and they were all ok. Today i switched out the MSD 6al box and went for a ride every thing was fine untill i stoped at a light and the fans came on and it started again so im lost. I know im not the only one with a msd 6al , msd distributor and 1 wire alt with a BBDY MOPAR out there so if you have a set up like mine and dont have any problems i would greatly appreceate some help.
 
OK, I missed, did this system work before the alternator conversion?
Secondly, how are the relays for the fans wired and are they on the same ground as your MSD box?

Rev.
 
One possibility would be interference from the fan motors breaking up the ignition signal. The other would be the fans are putting such a current drain on the system there isn't enough power to run the motor.

I would think it has to be one or the other, since the problem only seems to manifest itself when the fans engage
 
Wait wait wait. When did the fans get here? I don't seem to remember any fans mentioned at the start of this thread. Was is not worth mentioning when the question of amps or anything like that was asked?
OK, so when the fans come on, does the voltage drop?
What's it like when everything is on? (Include the headlights, blinkers, et, al.)
 
It sounds like you are feeding the fans thru a secondary wire instead of directly from the battery .
It sounds like you are overloading the feed ot the ground.
wire all accesories from the batt. not from a secondary source,
If you are using the stock ammeter you will need to bypass it and use a volt meter instead
 
Yes it all worked before with no problems just poped up and no the ground is seperate. And about the fans i didnt know they were part of the problem untill i changed the 6al box. The relays 12v+ is wired to silinoid on the firewall the ground is connected to frame at the bumper bracket and the 12v switch wire is connected to a green wire from the factory harness that comes on with the switch. I have a volt ga in the car and with fans,lights,dome light,hazards,brake peddle pushed down,trans break on and in gear it still reads 12 volts + . Now since it happen its doing it all the time even with fans off. My amp gauge is still hooked up and reads discharge all the time. How do you bypass it.
 
how does it run with the fans off, or are they tied to the ignition switch?
 
Double check and double ground the MSD. They tend to be ground whores.
Make sure it is grounded to the block.

Rev.
 
Yes it all worked before with no problems just poped up and no the ground is seperate. And about the fans i didnt know they were part of the problem untill i changed the 6al box. The relays 12v+ is wired to silinoid on the firewall the ground is connected to frame at the bumper bracket and the 12v switch wire is connected to a green wire from the factory harness that comes on with the switch. I have a volt ga in the car and with fans,lights,dome light,hazards,brake peddle pushed down,trans break on and in gear it still reads 12 volts + . Now since it happen its doing it all the time even with fans off. My amp gauge is still hooked up and reads discharge all the time. How do you bypass it.


You have a lot of stuff going on there.

First, voltage should be 13.5-14.5 volts. 12 volts doesn't cut it for charging the battery.

You've got a lot of current draws there. There's a draw from the solenoid in your trans brake and then your fans. You have to do some updating of your wiring to accomodate that stuff.

The ammeter is bypassed by shorting the back with a jumper across both terminals... but.... you really need to do something else.

EDIT: I just re-read this. You have a #4 wire going directly to the starter from what you have said. That ammeter shouldn't work much.. if at all.
 
volt and amp meter ?? remove the amp meter completely,by removing both wires and bolting them together,or use a butt connector,ive heard many problems with a old amp meter.all power runs thru the amp meter,
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top