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1963 belvedere 8 3/4 rear tapered axle

flatheadgary

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i am wanting to change the rear to a later model type and i heard that i can just change the third member and the axles to the later style. are the axle bearings the same size in both housing? i know i have to cut and respline the axles. the whole reason for this is because i don't want to cut down the later truck housing i have. this is just a 318 street car so it won't see a lot of abuse. thanks for any replies.
 
You cannot do that, the housing ends and bolt pattern is different. Brake backing plates have the different bolt pattern also. Have to change the entire rear end.

why don't you just run with the tapered axle? Put new brakes on it, repack the bearings and new seals in the housing. Done deal. They do work just fine, especially with your 318 street car.
 
I am running a '63 rear in my '64 now. New axles from Dr diff along with rear disc brakes and the original '63 3.23 pumpkin, no issues.
Later drum backplates would have to be used for drum brakes and just bolt up.
See @khryslerkid 's thread where he upgraded to new axles and runs drums on his original housing and suregrip.

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Somebody didn't get the memo.

It's a easy swap to the newer flanged axels. Dr Diff has what you need except for the newer backing plates and drums. Who knows, he might even have a source for them. If you're sticking with a 10"x 2.5" drum you need the newer backing plate (1965 and newer) for the 10"x 2.5". The shoes and drums can be bought from NAPA or such parts houses.

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Here's how it's done...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...p-new-residence.114133/page-11#post-910731376

I even made the fronts removable drums also.
 
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Somebody didn't get the memo.

It's a easy swap to the newer flanged axels. Dr Diff has what you need except for the newer backing plates and drums.

If you're really cheap, the backing plates can be bored out and the drums removed from the original hubs.
 
i am not sure everybody got what i was laying down. i have a'71 dodge 8 3/4 rear, actually several, i just didn't want to have to narrow that housing to fit my car is all. from what i think i get, it would be easyer to just narrow the '71 rear, so that is what i will do. i have done quite a few so nothing new. also, my '63 third member is worn out and howling. i also want to change the gears to a higher ratio. i do a lot of freeway driving and the 3.55 is just to low. something like a 2.90 or 3.0. i have been driving this car as a daily driver and was trying to get it tron down and back together quickly. i just bought another dd so i will just change the whole thing. as far as the '63 goes, it is a major pain getting the tapered hub off even with the right tool and i also have it too.
 
Hey KK

So can you confirm the bolt pattern on the axle tube flange the same between early and late?

Yes, on the 8 3/4" and possibly the dana. I'd have to look up the dana. The only thing different is the diameter of the hole in the center of the backing plate. It's smaller on the taypered axle backing plate and the newer flanged axel bearing won't pass through it.

Useing a newer backing plate (after 1964) you have to make sure it is for the same diameter and width for the drum you are using. Width is very important for the offset of the backing plate for the width of the drum.
 
If you're really cheap, the backing plates can be bored out and the drums removed from the original hubs.

Yes but the holes left behind from removing the swedged studs are not very round in the drum. They'll fit a little sloppy.

Here's a drum that I drilled the swedged studs out. I never touched the drum with the drill bit. The swedge deforms the hole when they install them.
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Yes but the holes left behind from removing the swedged studs are not very round in the drum. They'll fit a little sloppy.

Yes, but the drum centers on the center hub. Once the lugs are tightened the size of the lug stud holes is irrelevant.
 
Yes, but the drum centers on the center hub. Once the lugs are tightened the size of the lug stud holes is irrelevant.

Some fit snug some dont. Each stud also has a shoulder that helps with the drum fitment. Use it if you have too.
 
Yes, on the 8 3/4" and possibly the dana. I'd have to look up the dana. The only thing different is the diameter of the hole in the center of the backing plate. It's smaller on the taypered axle backing plate and the newer flanged axel bearing won't pass through it.

Useing a newer backing plate (after 1964) you have to make sure it is for the same diameter and width for the drum you are using. Width is very important for the offset of the backing plate for the width of the drum.
Thank you! Clearly when converting an early rear to later/flanged axles it is easier to use green bearings as there is no provision for end float adjustment, though you could still use tapered roller bearings and shims I presume?!
 
Thank you! Clearly when converting an early rear to later/flanged axles it is easier to use green bearings as there is no provision for end float adjustment, though you could still use tapered roller bearings and shims I presume?!

I believe the inside of the housing takes a smaller dia. axle bearing on the earlier one compared to a flanged axle housing, not by much but smaller. (Don't hold me to that).

When I was doing my research on having removable drums, as in a modern pull off and not a tapered fit hub, I found out quite a bit about the differences between the older and newer. When I decided to go with Dr. Diff for the conversion I pretty much forgot what all I had found out. The Dr Diff conversion was like a big secret and I couldn't confirm there was such a thing until I contacted him. He definitely knows what can be done with any modifications.

I would think that a adjustable, taypered roller bearing set-up could be done on a early rear housing just by having the right bearings installed on the correct lenth, flanged axles. If not by using the newer adjuster it could possibly be done with shims like originally done.

The early B body housing was the narrowest and could be a favorite for doing wider wheels and tires but it's probably just as easy to take the wider one that is already in your newer vehicle and shorten it and use the available housing ends and have the axles shortened and resplined.
 
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