1964 383 build

[4 speed fury]

Welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

good luck with the 64 Plymouth Fury 383 build

maybe check out a few builds in the Racers Hangout
&/or the Resto-Mod & Pro-Touring forums
or
the specific forums for engine builds

maybe even use the Search feature button, on the top right of every page
look up stuff, many subjects like this have been covered 100's of times over

okay will look into this!

 

[Budnicks]

1964 383 engine/4 speed with 373 gears It's been bored .030 over. *I've ordered KB 400-030 pistons,284/484 purple cam,it does NOT have power brakes
I'm using 906 heads that were flattened up 2-5 thousandths,*weiand 8008 intake and a AVS 2 650 carb, *would like to keep the stock manifolds. it's not

yours stock 383 is a 4.250" bore from teh factory, & a 3.38" stroke 0.030" over is 4.280"
why 400-.030" Pistons ? are same stroke/compression height, but that's a 4.370" bore,
std bore in a 400 is 4.340" starts out 0.090" bigger then the 383 bore
that'd be a 0.120" over bore, that's not good (on a 383) unless you're building a 400 short-block

that Weiand intake isn't very good
get a Edelbrock RPM Performer, best manifold for a B series engine hands down
you will probably need a drop base air-cleaner at a min. too, to clear the hood (?)
use a good gauze style air-cleaner element (like a K&N)
I'm not familiar with the 64 Cars, hood to carb fitments

get a proper carb to suit your needs
the AVS 650 isn't my 1st choice either, not a big fan of them
but will do, if your not really going after the best performance
also opt.
maybe go with a Holley Street Avengers or Demon 3 bbl,
for your set up & needs

Those stock iron exhaust manifolds if you do ANY PERFORMANCE ADD ONS/mods,
will be a serious choke point in performance, & a true HP killer
even a 'shorty header' mid-length like the Heddmans a couple hundred $$$
would be a serious improvement, & will add 10%+ hp while you're at it
over the restrictive iron stockers (those iron manifolds are not even a decent HP manifold at all)

get a good free flowing dual exhaust 2-1/4" to 2-1/2", with an X or H-pipe
along with decent muffler's
like an X-flow stainless steel Flowmasters like $39 ea.
what goes in needs to be let out...
Engines are just big air pumps, air in & air out...

if you follow the formula

IMO the 284/484 cam isn't a bad choice for your style of build,
get some good quality hydraulic lifters, & some matched springs for the camshaft chosen
& then buy break-in Oil too
& do the proper break-in period 20 min.s at high idle like 2500 RPM
on 1st start up, so you don't wipe the cam to begin with
let cool off completely, full heat & cooling cycle
then drive varying the RPM for the 1st 500 miles

get a hotter ignition & a min. of a hotter coil,
& some good low ohm resistant plug wires, something under 500 ohm per foot at a min.
to keep the fires lit

* just a driver/cruise in car im looking for a healthy engine with punch and some lump over the stock engine.

the suggestions above will do just that, add 50-70+ hp over the stocker

now if you want to get a bit more power
do some pocket bowl porting & cleaning up the heads/gasket matching
every lil' bit helps
made for a mild build like yours, money well spent on the right parts

a lil' pocket porting/gasket matching (on the 906 heads) easy to do it your garage
new valve seals too while you're at it, while you have it torn down
or have them done at the machinist

don't skimp do it 1 time right
get the proper valve springs, locks & retainers & keepers, for your specific camshaft

all basic perf. 101
class dismissed