1965 Coronet rear drivers wheel hot to touch after drive

[finz68]

I recently had brake pads and re-surfaced rotors done on my 1965 Coronet 500. Any time I drive for over an hour, I noticed that my rear drivers wheel is hot to touch especially compared to the other wheels. It doesn't pull or squeal and when I jacked it up, the wheel spun freely. Should I be concerned? Thanks!

 

[pnora]

I recently had brake pads and re-surfaced rotors done on my 1965 Coronet 500. Any time I drive for over an hour, I noticed that my rear drivers wheel is hot to touch especially compared to the other wheels. It doesn't pull or squeal and when I jacked it up, the wheel spun freely. Should I be concerned? Thanks!

Yes. Is it drums or disc on the rear?

 

[finz68]

drum

 

[steve340]

It does sound like it warrants some further investigation.
One wheel should not be abnormally hot compared to the others IMO.
Wheel bearing lubrication???
Parking brake cable/adjustment???

 

[finz68]

The bearings were replaced during the brake job and when I jacked up the car with both rear wheels off the ground they did spin effortlessly with the parking brake released. I have put approximated 100 miles on the car since the brakes were done but I will bring it to the mechanic that did the work. Thank you for the advice!

 

[Dave6T4]

I think '65 Coronet was first year of 1-piece axles, so would have the threaded axle end-play adjuster on the rear passenger axle. A lot of younger mechanics have never seen one, and likely don't understand its function. There has to be a lock tang there, too. Refer to FSM for adjustment.

 

[lewtot184]

Right rear wheel must have the bearing end play properly adjusted. My 65 and 69 coronet don't like the light modern bearing greases.

 

[VANDAN]

Possible hardware assembly malfunction, or adjusted wrong ? Take it apart, and check the shoes for glazing...

 

[Fran Blacker]

You can download a service manual on this site. Self adjuster can do funny things if you find anything else. Service Manuals – MyMopar

 

[finz68]

I recently had brake pads and re-surfaced rotors done on my 1965 Coronet 500. Any time I drive for over an hour, I noticed that my rear drivers wheel is hot to touch especially compared to the other wheels. It doesn't pull or squeal and when I jacked it up, the wheel spun freely. Should I be concerned? Thanks!

Update: the drums, pads and wheel cylinders on both rear wheels look perfect. The emergency brake deploys and releases on both wheels and both wheels stop equally with the car on jack-stands. The drums also come off with ease. What I did notice is that the wheel bearing retainer is different on either side. (See pics) The pic of the wheel that overheats is IMG_1932. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[pnora]

Update: the drums, pads and wheel cylinders on both rear wheels look perfect. The emergency brake deploys and releases on both wheels and both wheels stop equally with the car on jack-stands. The drums also come off with ease. What I did notice is that the wheel bearing retainer is different on either side. (See pics) The pic of the wheel that overheats is IMG_1932. Any thoughts? Thanks!

View attachment 1578260

View attachment 1578261

Normal. Only one adjuster.

 

[steve340]

No problem with the bearing retainer plates - that is stock. The different look is the rear axle bearing adjuster system.
Check the rear axle end-play.
Back off the emergency brake system and adjust the wheels. Then adjust the emergency brake up.
Check the rear axle oil level.
Try it on the road.

 

[Ron H]

As posted (#7) axle-end play tolerance. The adjustment wouldn’t be messed with unless removing axles or replacing the bearings that haven’t been done. Elementary; but a dying bearing will give off a growling or whirring noise, more difficult to detect if having a loud exhaust, but as it keeps dying it will send out a louder sound. Having had it on stands, that noise might have been noticeable. With rear up push/pull on the tires to see if you notice free-play on one vs the other. May not be the problem, but since you don’t find any issues with the brake linings and drums, no hang up with the adjuster, etc. it ‘might’ be a bearing going bad.

 

[pnora]

Post a picture of both sides showing the shoes.

 

[finz68]

Post a picture of both sides showing the shoes.

Driver is the wheel that gets so hot after a 30 minute drive that I can't even touch the drum (even though no smoke and no noise). The 3 other wheels are only warm at best. Both drums were cut and look smooth and have meat left on them. Thanks!

 

[finz68]

Driver is the wheel that gets so hot after a 30 minute drive that I can't even touch the drum (even though no smoke and no noise). The 3 other wheels are only warm at best. Both drums were cut and look smooth and have meat left on them. Thanks!

View attachment 1578317

View attachment 1578318

View attachment 1578319

View attachment 1578320

The top 2 pics are driver

 

[bc3j]

I had a similar problem which turned out to be out of round drums. There’s only a couple of shops in my area that even have the equipment to turn drums. Both my rear drums were brand new Bendix (China) and out of round right out of the box. Once turned problem was solved.

 

[finz68]

I had a similar problem which turned out to be out of round drums. There’s only a couple of shops in my area that even have the equipment to turn drums. Both my rear drums were brand new Bendix (China) and out of round right out of the box. Once turned problem was solved.

My drums were turned and pads replaced during a dual reservoir conversion. I appreciate the feedback though. Merry Christmas!

 

[VANDAN]

Looking at the pics, it doesn't appear the brakes are dragging to create the overheating. That leaves the bearings, and axles. I know bearing adjustment has been mentioned, so again check that. But you also said No Drag when rotating. I would think, with the overheating, you would start to see some seal leakage, as those would be showing signs of excessive heat cycling. This may be a dumb question, but do you have the proper level of diff fluid in the case ? Could the heat be transferring through the axle, to the drum ? Just throwing this out there to eliminate that possibility...

 

[finz68]

Looking at the pics, it doesn't appear the brakes are dragging to create the overheating. That leaves the bearings, and axles. I know bearing adjustment has been mentioned, so again check that. But you also said No Drag when rotating. I would think, with the overheating, you would start to see some seal leakage, as those would be showing signs of excessive heat cycling. This may be a dumb question, but do you have the proper level of diff fluid in the case ? Could the heat be transferring through the axle, to the drum ? Just throwing this out there to eliminate that possibility...

It's funny you say that because last night while laying in bed that popped into my mind! (Pathetic, right? lol). I'll check that after the holidays. Thanks again!