1968 Plymouth GTX

[1 Wild R/T]

The bolts are 1/4" I'm thinking the square holes in the body with the floating plate behind them are about 5/8", they could be closer to 1/2" which would only allow 1/4" of movement.... Either way it moves quite a bit...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I loosened the striker bolts all the way and then moved it outward. That did the trick.
Followed the same pattern with the passenger door, except it had an extra shim.

For some reason the passenger door striker is missing a fastening screw. I'll have to check the local hardware to see if they have one that will work.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I am installing the brake lines and when I check my disassembly photos I see this retaining clip but don't find anything like it in my parts bag.
Anyone know what it is or looks like?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

 

[Jesse6869]

Yep and on my a body i forgot to install it couldn’t get it in afteR floor board install. That’s a later thing to get to. Good luck.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Next question: Where does this go?

 

[Black_Sheep]

Right in front of where the speedometer cable passes through the firewall…

 

[dadsbee]

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Thank you, very much.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Struggling with a decision about EFI or simply rebuilding the Holley 4 barrel carb that came with the car.
Since I need to get the fuel tank installed and it needs a new sending unit, now would be the time to decide if I should upgrade.

I know the EFI systems are expensive but I won't need to purchase the actual system until I start on the engine rebuild. Right now it would be whether I go with an in the tank pump set up or just a new sending unit?

I have a friend who highly advocates for the Edlebrock Victor series but it seems many prefer the Holley EFI System.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Sticking with the carb.

Worked on the lower grill panel these last few days. I took a lot of hammer and dolly work as it was part of the front end damage on the car when I got it.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Pulled the brake drums, media blasted and painted them.

Removed the brake pads and hardware:

Ran one side through the blast cabinet and wire wheel to see if I could salvage them:

Turned out pretty decent so on to the other side.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Wheel cylinder removed:

Needs a bit of cleaning:

Got the outside cleaned up and ran a hone through the center.

Looking at how dirty these are makes it clear I need to take a look inside the rear axle as well.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Rear axle was pretty dirty and rusted:

Media blasted the rear axle housing and applied two coats of black epoxy primer. Also duplicated the factory marking:

Cleaned up the brake lines and got them reinstalled:

Waiting for the wheel cylinder rebuild kit and then I can get the brakes and wheel drums installed.

It looks like these traction bars were welded onto the bottom plates. Thinking I may be able to cut them off and salvage the original parts.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

There's nothing original on those traction bars...
Original parts....

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Thanks, glad I post the picture.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Got the wheel cylinders rebuild kit installed and then installed the brakes and drums. The brake lines were run through a wheel wire for clean up, blown clear with compressed air and reinstalled.
The wheels and tires are what came with the car and will be replace later on.

 

[MarPar]

Got the wheel cylinders rebuild kit installed and then installed the brakes and drums. The brake lines were run through a wheel wire for clean up, blown clear with compressed air and reinstalled.
The wheels and tires are what came with the car and will be replace later on.
View attachment 1578545

Holy meats!! lol

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Holy meats!! lol

Looks like 295's pretty easy to fit on a B body...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Looks like 295's pretty easy to fit on a B body...

I'll have to look at the size and dates for those tires.
They are mounted on Cragar SS 14" wheels.