SOLD 1968 Roadrunner Easy Project

[tykeeus]

I have a west coast 1968 383 auto Plymouth Roadrunner (not a Satellite, but a real Roadrunner) with Utah title.The main body has what is left of the original paint. The hood and left fender have been replaced with used parts. I have a completely rebuilt 1968 date code 383 engine on a stand and a rebuilt 727 trans with shift kit and mild stall converter. I have headers, Edelbrock intake, holley 750, New mini starter, Mopar electronic ignition, new wires, basically everything to get it running. I have new carpet, dash cover, and interior kit for bucket seats and rear seat. Rear seat is done, front seats need foam. I have matching material to reupholster the buddy seat and front seat backs. It needs a headliner. The main body has spotless floors. It has the typical rust spots in the corner of the rear window which caused some rust in the trunk and lower rear 1/4s. No other rust on body. Factory under coated. The used fender and hood have a some surface rust and minor damage, but all is fixable. I have both new rear trunk extensions, but haven't got the lower 1/4 patches. I also have all weatherstripping, body gaskets and seals. This car is any easy restoration with 95% of the parts needed already there. I'm asking $12500 OBO for everything. The car finished should bring $35000 plus. I have over 60 pictures of the car on Photo Bucket. Here is a link to the pictures: http://s1293.beta.photobucket.com/user/tykeeus/library/
I don't have the time to finish this car, so need to let it go. This car comes with the original fender tag and a clean Utah title and has been stored since 1989. Someone please get this car finished and back on the road. Thanks!

 

[tykeeus]

Any interest???

 

[tykeeus]

How about some input? I thought my price was fair considering condition of car, the fresh engine and trans and all the new parts included. Any opinions? I appreciate any input you may have. Thanks!

 

[tallhair]

How about some input? I thought my price was fair considering condition of car, the fresh engine and trans and all the new parts included. Any opinions? I appreciate any input you may have. Thanks!

curious why you started a new thread ... looks like a neat car / color. But even though condition is pretty nice all of these cars cost a fortune to restore so projects, even actual badge cars / nice ones don't just fly off the shelves if you know what I mean.

 

[68383GTS]

12.5 is a lot for a Road Runner project.Don't get me wrong looks like a nice car and mostly solid,but it is still a project.If it were a driver project you would have better luck selling it.But still you can find restored 68-69 Runners sometimes for 20-23K.

 

[D575]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47062-1969-Coronet-440-440-727-open-rear

 

[tykeeus]

I started another thread because the original thread became a chat room for everyone elses cars and if they still had them and on and on. Plus I added some pictures to this one.

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12.5 is a lot for a Road Runner project.Don't get me wrong looks like a nice car and mostly solid,but it is still a project.If it were a driver project you would have better luck selling it.But still you can find restored 68-69 Runners sometimes for 20-23K.

I understand what you are saying about if it were a driver, but mine has a NEW engine & trans, new upholstery and a bunch of new parts. Have you priced out what it costs to build a Mopar big block or any parts for a Mopar. Definitely not cheap like a Chevy. Anyway, I appreciate the input, and I am open to offers or maybe even a partial trade. Thanks!

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http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47062-1969-Coronet-440-440-727-open-rear

Nice car! I'm surprised it isn't sold.

 

[hemistix66]

Rusty posted it sold Saturday for $13k.It's ruff right now Ty.It'll sell try CL or local Mopar club newsletter.Sometimes local is better, just a thought

 

[68383GTS]

I know what parts cost and what it cost to build a big block. I am just saying it hard enough to sell project cars let alone driving cars right now.Mopars are starting to sell again.The true Mopar muscle cars are fetching some good prices also,but a 12K project thats a whole different ball game.

 

[flypaper]

since you asked for opinions
first off,
there is no such thing as a "easy" project! lol

i hate to be the bearer of bad news...
your project still needs about 15-20k date with a body guy
the biggest nut in a restoration.
quality materials can run you 3k alone
at the point it is right now,
if you bail, the value is at a low point
because the largest part of the car,
the body needs to be redone.

if you want 12k out of that
your best move would be parting it out
and sell your new drivetrain/nice parts separate from the car.
together you will not get as much.
good luck

 

[tykeeus]

Rusty posted it sold Saturday for $13k.It's ruff right now Ty.It'll sell try CL or local Mopar club newsletter.Sometimes local is better, just a thought

Thanks. I have it listed local and posted it in Vegas last weekend for Mopars at the strip. I also have it on craigslist and a couple of other forums. I'm thinking about trying Ebay, but not too confident about that after looking at what has sold recently. Since we have Kool April Nights car show here next month, I'm hoping for some interest from that. The one point I would like to point out to anyone looking at my post, is it is OR BEST OFFER. I had to start somewhere where I wouldn't have to take too big of a hit.

THANKS TO ALL for the input. I appreciate it.

 

[kdtjb]

If that was a #s matching motor transmission car, and I was looking for a 68 I would pay 12500 for it. If it's a life time California car, it would save 2500 - 3000 in sheet metal. Maybe that much more in labor. You put a couple grand in the motor, that adds up to a 4500 dollar Roadrunner. Even a non #s car is fair at that price. I always will look harder at a true California car because of the well preserved condition. Arizona cars are also good, good but the plastic parts take a beating from the heat and Sun. If you are in a hurry to sell it, you might have to lower your price. If your not, not just wait for your buyer to come to you.

 

[696969]

Hell, why sell it? maybe rust treat it and get the car driving to enjoy it a while.

 

[hunt2elk]

If that was a #s matching motor transmission car, and I was looking for a 68 I would pay 12500 for it. If it's a life time California car, it would save 2500 - 3000 in sheet metal. Maybe that much more in labor. You put a couple grand in the motor, that adds up to a 4500 dollar Roadrunner. Even a non #s car is fair at that price. I always will look harder at a true California car because of the well preserved condition. Arizona cars are also good, good but the plastic parts take a beating from the heat and Sun. If you are in a hurry to sell it, you might have to lower your price. If your not, not just wait for your buyer to come to you.

X2

 

[tykeeus]

since you asked for opinions
first off,
there is no such thing as a "easy" project! lol

i hate to be the bearer of bad news...
your project still needs about 15-20k date with a body guy
the biggest nut in a restoration.
quality materials can run you 3k alone
at the point it is right now,
if you bail, the value is at a low point
because the largest part of the car,
the body needs to be redone.

if you want 12k out of that
your best move would be parting it out
and sell your new drivetrain/nice parts separate from the car.
together you will not get as much.
good luck

First let me say that I appreciate everyones input. Even though most of it is disappointing. As for your point about the body work. Since I'm a body man for over 36 years, I do know what it takes to do the body work on this. You are right that the body work is the biggest expense left. No restoration is cheap if you pay someone else to do it. That is why you see cars worth $30K with over a $100K in work done. On this car a good body man could have this in final prime in 1-2 weeks. A person with basic body skills could have it in final prime in a month or 2. My problem is I do restorations a customize cars for a living and have no time to work on my own. I have taken care of some of the biggest costs on this (buying the car, engine rebuild, trans rebuild, a ton of new parts) and I just want to recoup some of what I spent. At $12500 I'm losing money and I expected to. I would like to get a fair price, and like I've said in some of my other replies, my price is not firm. I'm getting the impression that most seem to think this should be priced like half what I'm asking. From what I've seen now and back when I bought this car, is that a clean rolling chassis goes around $5000 and a ugly rusty complete car is about the same. There are always the occasional rediculously cheap deal that pops up every now and then, but they are hard to get. I know, I've tried. So I guess the question is: What should I be asking for this car??

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Hell, why sell it? maybe rust treat it and get the car driving to enjoy it a while.

Main reason I don't do that, is lack of time and lack of money. I spent most of the money on this when the economy was booming. Like a lot of people now, I'm working more and have less to show for it. So something needs to go. Unfortunately it is my Roadrunner

 

[coronet500]

Like you, I'm feeling the down economy. If things were better for me, I'd consider it at around your price. Just can't happen at this point. I say stick with it, you find that person who will meet you.

GLWS!

 

[D575]

There's a buyer for everything. eventually someone will " Have to have it "..

 

[RustyRatRod]

You boasted about the engine being NEW. How much do you think the engine is worth? With those stock good for nuthin paddle rockers? That means it caint have much of a cam or much in the way of springs so probably stock or close to stock. It doesn't matter how much you have in it. It matters what the market will bear. Aint nobody gonna pay a super premium price for a stock or semi stock rebuild. Transmission? We can sling together a 727 here with new converter, good clutches shift kit and all for about 850. I would say 3K on the engine. That's 3850. What do you think the car's worth? Is what's left worth 8650? Would you pay 8650 for a roller? The fact that the engine is a 68 date code is worthless because it's not the numbers matching engine. With numbers, either it matches or it doesn't. Period. End of discussion. Over and out. Roger wilco. So, yes, you're asking too much. I'm no expert, but I'd say about 4-5K too much. ....and remember, you ASKED. I didn't say all this to insult you. You asked everybody for their opinions. That's mine.

 

[D575]

You boasted about the engine being NEW. How much do you think the engine is worth? With those stock good for nuthin paddle rockers? That means it caint have much of a cam or much in the way of springs so probably stock or close to stock. It doesn't matter how much you have in it. It matters what the market will bear. Aint nobody gonna pay a super premium price for a stock or semi stock rebuild. Transmission? We can sling together a 727 here with new converter, good clutches shift kit and all for about 850. I would say 3K on the engine. That's 3850. What do you think the car's worth? Is what's left worth 8650? Would you pay 8650 for a roller? The fact that the engine is a 68 date code is worthless because it's not the numbers matching engine. With numbers, either it matches or it doesn't. Period. End of discussion. Over and out. Roger wilco. So, yes, you're asking too much. I'm no expert, but I'd say about 4-5K too much. ....and remember, you ASKED. I didn't say all this to insult you. You asked everybody for their opinions. That's mine.

I would drive up to Redding and pick it up for 4500 ..I bet a bunch of people would.

 

[kdtjb]

You think there's no interest in that car? This thread has 18 replies. There is interest in them 68 runners. Take it to the spring fling in Van Nuys May 12th and 13th.