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1968 Runner post w/ 6.1L, 6 speed, IRS

Thanks guys for the kind words and encouragement. The Runner project is underway again:

Since the torsion bars were eliminated, I have a lot more options for manifolds/headers. Since this car will have about 475-500hp, I decided to go with the factory stainless headers that came on the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8. I have a couple pair from Jeeps I've parted out. The SRT headers are really durable pieces that also flow very well; they flow as well as any aftermarket shorty header; and SRT headers can easily handle 500hp. Only above that level would longtube headers make a real difference. I didn't want to use the factory headers from the Charger/Challenger/etc because they basically point at the firewall in a B body Mopar. The Jeep manifolds point down at a better angle and they hug the block (maybe a little too well) but they will still need some modification on the passenger side in order to clear the bell housing/starter. I also didn't want to spend $750 on a set of mild steel headers that I would have to clearance (ding/dent) anyway.

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The driver's side manifold bumped into the alterktion motor mount so the easiest thing is to modify the motor mount.

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The straight piece was removed in favor of a curved pipe. this if the view looking toward the firewall (rearward)

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This view is looking forward

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I will have tons of room between the frame rails and manifolds. The manifolds will also be easy to remove if need be. I plan to drive this car a lot...

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If you got access to a mill, you can shave/grind the flange a few degrees to swing the manifolds away from the block. Don’t go crazy, but it can be done.
 
Good idea but we decided to go another direction
The passenger side crashed hard against the area on the bell housing where the starter mounts. The manifold wasn't even close to seating/mounting.

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Matt sliced the passenger manifold, heated it up, and bent the collector end outward a few degrees. Then he welded it back up. Sorry-the pictures aren't very good but the silver area in the next two pictures is where the slice was made.

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Brake kits are too expensive and since I have parted out SRT8's, I figured I should use what I have. Matt had a bracket machined (and ordered 4 sets for future builds). Now i've got 4 piston Brembo calipers with Dodge rotors (for easy replacement). The other benefit is that my master cylinder and brake pedal are from an SRT Challenger so its a perfect pairing.

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The differential is going to be a limited slip Getrag unit that I pulled from a 2010 Challenger SRT8 I parted out. The Challengers with the 6 speed manual transmission received a 3.91 ratio vs the 3.06 that came with the automatic. My 2010 Challenger daily driver has the exact same 6.1L, 6 speed, and Getrag 3.91. With the .50 overdrive ratio, I am turning 2,000 RPM at 85mph. Should be fun off the line and still comfortable on the highway. The differential just got installed so that exhaust could be routed.

View from the right side...
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View from behind:
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The OEM SRT wheels just didn't look right so I finally decided on a wheel.....now that I know the 20x9 will fit over the Brembo calipers, I can order up the other 3 wheels.

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Front tires are 245/40/20 and the rears are 315/40/20. I've got room for more tire on the rear, but I'm happy with the 315 size and price. Since 315/40/20's come on several production vehicles, prices are much cheaper compared to a 325 or 335.

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And a few pics of the wheels on the car...

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I bought a fuel tank (for fuel injection) from Tanks Inc. but the independent rear suspension frame is so huge that a stock fuel tank won't fit. So....the new tank had to be modified. Here's what it looked like in stock form:

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And modified....
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Thanks! And yeah....I have a problem with scope creep.
Oh I am very familiar with mission creep (as we called it in the military). Exactly the reason I have been working on the same Cuda for like 14 years...
 
I'm in the same boat on my 1970 Barracuda. This summer will be 10 years of owning it and working on it.......and I've never driven it.
 
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