1970 383 in 1969 Charger Not Running Right

[Road Grabber]

Road Grabber - I put the filter there as it is easy accessible as well as catching anything before it hits the fuel pump.
Filters like that shouldn't have any restriction in fuel flow.

So you don’t have a filter after the pump?

Kinda makes sense since you don’t have to remove the alternator to replace the filter…

 

[71Beeper]

You are correct - no filter after the pump.

 

[Road Grabber]

You said the engine quit or progressively ran worse with the lights on.
You may have a bad alternator or voltage regulator. You may not be getting proper voltage.
Start the car and then pull the positive cable off the battery to see if the engine stalls. If so your charging system is bad.
If you have a volt meter check the voltage at the battery then start the car. The voltage should jump at least two volts.
When you run the engine do the headlights get brighter when you rev the engine and dim when you go back to idle?

You can write a troubleshooting manual with these postings….

 

[glrestomod]

You said the engine quit or progressively ran worse with the lights on.
You may have a bad alternator or voltage regulator. You may not be getting proper voltage.
Start the car and then pull the positive cable off the battery to see if the engine stalls. If so your charging system is bad.
If you have a volt meter check the voltage at the battery then start the car. The voltage should jump at least two volts.
When you run the engine do the headlights get brighter when you rev the engine and dim when you go back to idle?

You can write a troubleshooting manual with these postings….

We replaced the alternator, and the voltage regulator on the firewall. You’re right about the troubleshooting manual from these posts! I’m working through them now! Since we replaced the alternator (it was tested at O’Reiley’s and the voltage regulator inside the alternator was bad) the headlights don’t dim anymore like they did before. However, the miss is still there and is more pronounced/worse when it’s up to temperature (160 degrees).

 

[Road Grabber]

We replaced the alternator, and the voltage regulator on the firewall. You’re right about the troubleshooting manual from these posts! I’m working through them now! Since we replaced the alternator (it was tested at O’Reiley’s and the voltage regulator inside the alternator was bad) the headlights don’t dim anymore like they did before. However, the miss is still there and is more pronounced/worse when it’s up to temperature (160 degrees).

When you say “miss” that should mean it runs on all but one cylinder? Or does it break up? Breaking up is not the same as a miss.

You can identify a misfire by using a plastic tong or if you don’t mind a possible shock by pulling one ignition wire out of the cap at a time and watch the spark jumping back into the cap. First off it should be blue not orange. Orange is a weak spark. Second you should be able to pull the wire away from the cap and notice the engine stumbling
If it is firing correctly you will put the wire close to cap and when the spark jumps back to the cap the engine should run better.
When you find the wire(s) not firing or demonstrating a change you can isolate which cylinder (s) are not firing correctly.

If you think you have identified the cylinder(s) switch the plug wire to see if the wire is no good. Brand new wires can be bad. You can also switch a plug that is known to be working with the cylinder not firing to see if it now works correctly and the cylinder you switched with doesn’t work.

You also need to put at least a 180 thermostat in. 192 is stock. It’s not good to run the engine that cold. You will build up carbon inside the engine pistons, valves, plugs etc.

It all comes down to compression, fuel , ignition in order to run.

I would always start with checking compression and go from there….

 

[glrestomod]

When you say “miss” that should mean it runs on all but one cylinder? Or does it break up? Breaking up is not the same as a miss.

You can identify a misfire by using a plastic tong or if you don’t mind a possible shock by pulling one ignition wire out of the cap at a time and watch the spark jumping back into the cap. First off it should be blue not orange. Orange is a weak spark. Second you should be able to pull the wire away from the cap and notice the engine stumbling
If it is firing correctly you will put the wire close to cap and when the spark jumps back to the cap the engine should run better.
When you find the wire(s) not firing or demonstrating a change you can isolate which cylinder (s) are not firing correctly.

If you think you have identified the cylinder(s) switch the plug wire to see if the wire is no good. Brand new wires can be bad. You can also switch a plug that is known to be working with the cylinder not firing to see if it now works correctly and the cylinder you switched with doesn’t work.

You also need to put at least a 180 thermostat in. 192 is stock. It’s not good to run the engine that cold. You will build up carbon inside the engine pistons, valves, plugs etc.

It all comes down to compression, fuel , ignition in order to run.

I would always start with checking compression and go from there….

Thank you! I’ll check those things this week. I also have a new compression test kit, and I have a mechanic friend who is going to help me check it! You’re totally right about the word “miss,” I’m so used to a rough running engine being referred to (wrongly of course) as a miss I use that term out of habit. I can feel it through the exhaust and I can hear a slight pinging noise.

My mechanic friend checked the plug wires a while back and we had a bad one, so I replaced them. Definitely worth checking again though! Thanks so much for the help!

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

I would pull the distributor and wires and redo them from scratch mate

 

[glrestomod]

I would pull the distributor and wires and redo them from scratch mate

Yeah, already done it twice now, but definitely need to make sure just in case. I’ll do the compression test first and then work my way to it.

 

[glrestomod]

So I hooked a vacuum gauge to it again (hope to get a compression test this weekend) while it was idling and up to temperature. It slightly fluctuated this past weekend so I was worried I had a stuck or burnt valve. However, it seems to be holding very steady and have high vacuum now that I’ve just hooked it back up again. Here is a link to the video of it running. The second clip is of the exhaust and you can hear the rough running/pinging at the exhaust. Any ideas on what may be causing me these problems? If I could eliminate this it runs fantastic and starts quicker than any car I’ve ever started!

General Lee Vacuum Gauge and Idle

 

[Some Car Guy]

What is the idle speed? Sounds really high.

 

[glrestomod]

What is the idle speed? Sounds really high.

That’s another issue I’m having. I had it tuned with the vacuum gauge and tried to adjust the timing, etc. and had it idling in Park at 950. I tightened everything down and had it set right, next time I start it, after the electrical choke kicks off now it’s at 2100 rpm after the chrome kicks off! No idea why!

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

That’s another issue I’m having. I had it tuned with the vacuum gauge and tried to adjust the timing, etc. and had it idling in Park at 950. I tightened everything down and had it set right, next time I start it, after the electrical choke kicks off now it’s at 2100 rpm after the chrome kicks off! No idea why!

Make sure the fast idle is not engaged mate , blip the throttle after a minute or 2

 

[glrestomod]

Make sure the fast idle is not engaged mate , blip the throttle after a minute or 2

Well, what’s wild is I did that! It was around 3000 rpm when warming up, then it came down to about 2000 rpm! Crazy!

 

[glrestomod]

Also, I have turned the idle screw, but not the one associated with the choke. Should I back the one associated with the choke idle down? Brand new carburetor, so I only messed with the idle mixture screws and tuned it with a vacuum gauge and I messed with the idle rpm screw but it goes out so far and then doesn't affect the idle anymore.

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

Also, I have turned the idle screw, but not the one associated with the choke. Should I back the one associated with the choke idle down? Brand new carburetor, so I only messed with the idle mixture screws and tuned it with a vacuum gauge and I messed with the idle rpm screw but it goes out so far and then doesn't affect the idle anymore.

Fast idle screw mate , If you open the throttle fully there's a screw underneath it , back it out and test her

 

[glrestomod]

Fast idle screw mate , If you open the throttle fully there's a screw underneath it , back it out and test her

Awesome, I'll try that this evening! Thanks!!

 

[Some Car Guy]

You’ve yet to tune anything on the idle since it’s not on the curb idle circuit. Get the fast idle off so you can do some real tuning.

 

[Road Grabber]

The fast idle screw should be adjusted when you first start the engine cold. It should kick down as it warms up after kicking the throttle as it warms.
That being said you might have to adjust during the cold months vs summer months.

The idle screw should adjusted when the engine reaches operating temperature and choke fully open which should be using the 192 thermostat.

You have to be careful you are using the idle circuit. Not trying to adjust idle speed while in the part throttle position. This is a common mistake.

Idle mixture is adjusted with vacuum gauge. Not for adjusting speeds.

There are some great books out there. I would suggest some reading to familiarize yourself with carburetors. Eventually you will have to adjust or have to rebuild one yourself.

Glad you are making progress.

 

[glrestomod]

The fast idle screw should be adjusted when you first start the engine cold. It should kick down as it warms up after kicking the throttle as it warms.
That being said you might have to adjust during the cold months vs summer months.

The idle screw should adjusted when the engine reaches operating temperature and choke fully open which should be using the 192 thermostat.

You have to be careful you are using the idle circuit. Not trying to adjust idle speed while in the part throttle position. This is a common mistake.

Idle mixture is adjusted with vacuum gauge. Not for adjusting speeds.

There are some great books out there. I would suggest some reading to familiarize yourself with carburetors. Eventually you will have to adjust or have to rebuild one yourself.

Glad you are making progress.

Thanks for the help! I'll check on it this evening! I'm a reader for sure, so I definitely need to read up and start building a library! I adjusted the idle mixture screws (one at a time) with the vacuum gauge hooked on the manifold vacuum port on the carburetor. I adjusted the screw labeled in the manual that came with the carburetor "idle speed screw, " not the one that is accessible when the throttle is pulled wide open that is related to the choke (is that what is referred to as the "fast idle screw?"). Should I adjust the fast idle screw when the engine is cold, and then adjust the regular idle screw?

 

[Road Grabber]

Thanks for the help! I'll check on it this evening! I'm a reader for sure, so I definitely need to read up and start building a library! I adjusted the idle mixture screws (one at a time) with the vacuum gauge hooked on the manifold vacuum port on the carburetor. I adjusted the screw labeled in the manual that came with the carburetor "idle speed screw, " not the one that is accessible when the throttle is pulled wide open that is related to the choke (is that what is referred to as the "fast idle screw?"). Should I adjust the fast idle screw when the engine is cold, and then adjust the regular idle screw?

Yes when the engine is cold adjust choke and fast idle.
Idle adjustment when hot. Just a 1/4 turn at a time. Typical start point is 1-1/2 to 2 turns out from all the way in. But if you are already running just start turning the idle in until it starts to stumble and then come back out while watching the vacuum gauge to verify best adjustments.

Your choke in the summer is about bit under or 1/4” gap. That differs with engine though. You must be close.

Adjust your carb, take it for a ride , shut it down and take some plugs out to see how your adjustments are doing. If you have a good running engine the plugs should be tan colored. Your exhaust you reflect your plugs being tan colored. Not black and caked with carbon. Put your hand up to the exhaust and feel for a smooth pulse or popping misfire.

If you can read plugs you can do a lot of diagnosis. There’s lot of materials out there about how to read plugs. They tell you quite a bit of what’s going on inside your engine.