1970 Hood Indicator Restoration

[Moparfiend]

1970 Hood Signal Restoration.


Not seen anyone doing this and so I thought I would share and post.

Originally the hood call-out was just that. It didn’t have the factory indicator openings. So they needed to be opened. Used my Dremel with a carbide cutter after opening up. Used the lines from the casting.

Light housings were in poor shape but after careful cleaning they looked decent for their age. Used 1/8 amber plexiglass and UV cured epoxy for attachment and seal.

New wiring and bullet connectors with and LED replacement and custom amber lens set up. Rubberized sealed LED holders. Wasn’t easy but really rewarding.

All works great and looks factory.

 

[Moparfiend]

Few more shots:

Lens pictures are before the UV epoxy seal.

 

[70 SUPERBIRD]

Great job

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Aren’t they just fillers and when equipped those lights the filler was replaced by a bezel with the lights ready to be installed? Did they really need to be opened?

 

[Moparfiend]

Aren’t they just fillers and when equipped those lights the filler was replaced by a bezel with the lights ready to be installed? Did they really need to be opened?

Hey Nacho. Not sure I fully understand your question. This is a new AMD Air Grabber hood. The call Out/turn signal bezel is currently not being produced. So you need to buy it used. A rather rare item indeed. The one I bought had no openings. It’s a solid casting! I surmise that the turn indicators are an optiin and when not optioned they must have used a solid blocked off bezel? Maybe someone here can explain for certain how these came to be as I am just guessing.

One thing I do know from my manufacturing experience is that to post machine these to accommodate the signals would be far more expensive compared to simply have two different castings and stock both as cast and as needed for the line.

Does that answer your question?

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Aren’t they just fillers and when equipped those lights the filler was replaced by a bezel with the lights ready to be installed? Did they really need to be opened?

No fillers Nacho, they were cast closed

 

[R413]

Great work on these lights!

Yes they need opened up to use the lamps.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes, that was my question. I though that, like on Chargers, when no optioned the hood got a plug/filler. And when turn lights was optioned the full piece was replaced with the propper bezel and light assembly in place of the plug/filler.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No fillers Nacho, they were cast closed

just noticed is a full one piece insert on to the hood opening. So I guess ALL inserts needed to be opened to accept the lights.

So the parts catalog doesn’t show two diff inserts, one to cars with lights and the other without.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

@Moparfiend really cool job! If it was me I was used a “Prismatic” plexiglass to get more light dispersion, althought is true would need more job to make it look clean.

 

[Coelacanth]

@Moparfiend really cool job! If it was me I was used a “Prismatic” plexiglass to get more light dispersion, althought is true would need more job to make it look clean.

I can add some input to this as I also installed LEDs in my hood indicators. The first LEDs that were installed were white and both the light color and dispersion were not ideal. You could clearly see straight-on white circles shining through the lenses and the whole lenses didn't illuminate. I tried some other LEDs I found on Amazon (though these are the bulb type, not the spade type the OP has installed) that were orange, and had diodes aimed more sideways, and the result was ten times nicer. Bright orange and nearly the whole lenses lit up. More info linked to Grendel's project thread:

Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970 Charger 500

Unfortunately the digital pics and video don't really show up properly as the LEDs shine too bright and the cellphone cam washes out, but the hood indicators were much better with the different LEDs, linked in that post.

 

[davek]

Sweet I like it.

 

[Moparfiend]

Just to be clear.
1. I converted the socket to a T10 194 bulb.
2. The LED’s I used were too bright they blind you if you look at them at 12V!
3. I wanted the look of a 12V incandescent.

So I filled the hole with epoxy to act as a lens. Effectively using only one of the 5 smt LED’s (the top one).
I can make it way brighter if I wanted by opeoning up the epoxy kens and pushing LED farther into the main light cavity but they work really well for even day time use in the sun!

 

[Sinitro]

Just to be clear.
1. I converted the socket to a T10 194 bulb.
2. The LED’s I used were too bright they blind you if you look at them at 12V!
3. I wanted the look of a 12V incandescent.

So I filled the hole with epoxy to act as a lens. Effectively using only one of the 5 smt LED’s (the top one).
I can make it way brighter if I wanted by opeoning up the epoxy kens and pushing LED farther into the main light cavity but they work really well for even day time use in the sun!

If U want different brightness levels, wedge bulbs are available in different voltages including 14V, 24V, 28V...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Moparfiend]

If U want different brightness levels, wedge bulbs are available in different voltages including 14V, 24V, 28V...

Just my $0.02...

Thanks …. I could also put a potentiometer inline and dial it in if I wanted but it’s absolutely fine is what I was trying to convey.

 

[Sinitro]

Thanks …. I could also put a potentiometer inline and dial it in if I wanted but it’s absolutely fine is what I was trying to convey.

If U use a potentimeter..
Make sure it is wirewound and at least rated @5W or >..

Just my $0.02...

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

just noticed is a full one piece insert on to the hood opening. So I guess ALL inserts needed to be opened to accept the lights.

So the parts catalog doesn’t show two diff inserts, one to cars with lights and the other without.

Pretty sure there were two versions of that inset/bezel originally, cast open or cast plugged. Made that conversion a couple of times myself back in the day when you could readily buy them over the counter at the dealers. Don't recall having to cut out the blanks. Does have two separate listing descriptions, with the same part number, could be an error.

 

[Moparfiend]

Pretty sure there were two versions of that inset/bezel originally, cast open or cast plugged. Made that conversion a couple of times myself back in the day when you could readily buy them over the counter at the dealers. Don't recall having to cut out the blanks. Does have two separate listing descriptions , with the same part number, could be an error.
View attachment 1962263

Thank you. That makes sense. My manufacturing background wouldn't let me post process one casting into two variants. Even back in the 70’s touch labor was a thing.
You would still need to maintain two unique part numbers anyways for ordering purposes and thus separate bins etc.
Lastly even with a jig machining cast zink isn’t fun.

 

[Sinitro]

My experience for the 70RRs & GTXs was that there was (3) different hoods available. My 70 RR and others I have seen had the cast hood insert with the indicators spaces plugged. To install the turn indicators, one just punched the plugs out. Today there a couple suppliers of the repro indicators, including Classic Industries, PG Classics, Herbs..

Just my $0.02...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

well, thanks… I guess nowdays could be really hard and expensive try to find the one with the openings, so cut the piece would be the logical step if no other difference between both.