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1970 Mopar B Body 440 TTI Headers R they worth it

ruready67

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I have 1970 Mopar b body with 440 looking at TTI Headers currently running full QA1 front suspension Non coil over torssion bar with headman headers had to beat the **** out of them for clearance especially passenger 3rd side spark cooks spark plug wires looking for evaluation R they worth the money do they have to b clearance to make them fit
 
Have you tried the fiberglass boots over the plug wire and terminal?
Mike
 
i put a set of 2" tti's on my '65 coronet with a 440 in it. fit like a glove and that includes the full 3" exhaust. the #6 plug wire needs to be tucked under but other than that no issues. i prefer to make my plug wires while the engine is on the stand which really helps. if you don't make your own wires good luck with aftermarket crap.
 
I have Dougs D452 headers so can't comment on TTI's - other than they're very expensive. The Dougs fit awesome. But I totally agree with the above statement about plug wires !! I use 4 Firecore wires with 45* boots on the back four plugs and 4 MSD's with 90* boots on the front four.
 
I run tti's on my 383 A Body with ceramic boot wires. My only complaint is having to run a $400 RobbMc starter on my application.
 
I have 1970 Mopar b body with 440 looking at TTI Headers currently running full QA1 front suspension Non coil over torssion bar with headman headers had to beat the **** out of them for clearance especially passenger 3rd side spark cooks spark plug wires looking for evaluation R they worth the money do they have to b clearance to make them fit
I went with Hooker and the rest was from TTI in my 68 GTX! Fit was perfect and 3” all the way sounds the balls!
 
I have 1970 Mopar b body with 440 looking at TTI Headers currently running full QA1 front suspension Non coil over torssion bar with headman headers had to beat the **** out of them for clearance especially passenger 3rd side spark cooks spark plug wires looking for evaluation R they worth the money do they have to b clearance to make them fit
I installed a set of TTI 1-3/4" primary headers on my 1970 GTX and only had to 'massage' one header tube down low on the passenger side for torsion bar clearance.
Other than that, no issues and they worked great. If you do get the headers - get them coated first....rusty headers are a real downer when looking at the engine bay.

Also, for plug wires, you can't go past a set of wires from Firecore. The boots stand the heat better than any other plug wire I have used...and you don't need add-on boots either.
 
I run Doug's on my 440 70 Superbee w/ 4 sp. The headers fit great until I tried an aftermarket PS box that wasn't the same shape as the OEM. Then I ran into serious problems!
 
I run Doug's on my 440 70 Superbee w/ 4 sp. The headers fit great until I tried an aftermarket PS box that wasn't the same shape as the OEM. Then I ran into serious problems!
So, were you able to get the Doug's to fit with the Borgeson box? How much rework?
 
I did not try a Borgeson. I used an off the shelf, aftermarket box, that you can get from the supply houses. Those boxes have a different designed case that does not use the external balance pressure valve. Therefore the case hits the headers AND, I've now discovered, I can not get the column coupler to engage the input shaft on the new gearbox. Third problem is the box doesn't come with the HP fitting on top. The original off the OEM box does thread into the new box BUT not deep enough to seal, even with a new crush washer. I ground the bottom of the fitting a little and still can't get it to seal. Start it up and pressurize the PS system and fluid sprays all over the frame and floor! I've come to the conclusion that I'm gonna send my OEM box to Steer N Gear or FirmFeel for rebuild.
 
I did not try a Borgeson. I used an off the shelf, aftermarket box, that you can get from the supply houses. Those boxes have a different designed case that does not use the external balance pressure valve. Therefore the case hits the headers AND, I've now discovered, I can not get the column coupler to engage the input shaft on the new gearbox. Third problem is the box doesn't come with the HP fitting on top. The original off the OEM box does thread into the new box BUT not deep enough to seal, even with a new crush washer. I ground the bottom of the fitting a little and still can't get it to seal. Start it up and pressurize the PS system and fluid sprays all over the frame and floor! I've come to the conclusion that I'm gonna send my OEM box to Steer N Gear or FirmFeel for rebuild.
Thanks. I think that getting the stock box done is a good idea
 
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