1973 Charger Power Steering Rag Joint and Coupler

[Montclaire]

Were they ever actually made in poly?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

as far I recall, yes... previous releases from BPE were. Unless I'm wrong ?¿?¿?¿?¿?¿?

 

[Montclaire]

BPE part number was the same as Bouchillon so I am guessing they were both aluminum.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

BPE is Bouchillon LOL

 

[Nacho-RT74]

a NOS crazy nut

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-New-Mopar-Steering-Coupler-/253458094880

 

[Nacho-RT74]

and... well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Satel...ash=item21329d8ea0:g:hZYAAMXQaFRQ0uJi&vxp=mtr

 

[Montclaire]

From our friends at C-bodiesonly.com...

I talked to Randy at Bouchillon this morning and he confirmed that the newest rendition is in fact solid powdercoated aluminum. He says the original ones he made were rubber but did not hold up to the heat well, then he tried polyurethane which he says smelled like crap when it got hot, so then he switched to solid over a year ago.

 

[Montclaire]

Is the 72 column plug-n-play?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

From our friends at C-bodiesonly.com...

That's what I though and why I was saying the earliers were available poly

( change the poly due the smell when gets heat? what a crap!!! what about engine poly mounts ?, so now they will be also solid due the smell ? ).

Is the 72 column plug-n-play?

From steering wheel to firewall, yes. Can't tell the engine bay side. We must remember the K member is diff, so maybe lenght change.

 

[ODZKing]

Anything but a solid one with out metal to support the bolts will wear out eventually. The original had metal supports.
The reason they were made of rubber was to absorb the bumps.
The second pic shows the supports and what was left of the rag joint.

 

[Montclaire]

What I'd like to do is find a cheaper solid alternative. $120 for an aluminum hockey puck is a little high for me. What about a material like phenolic resin?

 

[Montclaire]

Found this one for a Triumph, trying to get dimensions.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

wow! that looks really good!

 

[YY1]

Note the bolt holes are different sizes.

 

[Montclaire]

They are recessed for an allen head. I am seeing these for as low as $15, my fingers are crossed that they will measure up. Dibs on submitting an article to Mopar Action if this works out. haha

This one has a different lug shape

 

[Montclaire]

Dimensions - 60mm x 60mm x 33mm THICK ; HOLE SIZE 5/16" ; HOLE DISTANCE 37mm CENTRE TO CENTRE.

Can anyone check their original for bolt spacing? It's slightly thicker than stock - more like 1 1/4" as opposed to an inch. I don't know if there is enough adjustment in the column to make up for that, but I assume a .25th won't kill it.

 

[YY1]

I thought I had measured mine, but apparently I just found the center lines and then used the bolt strap/countersink plate to get the distance.

If using bolts and jamb nuts, the longer bolt takes the place of the metal inserts, and will contact the casting, allowing nearly the same 5-ish degrees of slop.

Mine was as bad as the pic posted earlier.
It's just been carefully placed back together for the pic.

 

[Montclaire]

I finally dug my column out - 50mm center to center. So that's a no-go on the triumph part.

 

[ODZKing]

Here are the pictures. I never tried it, I am not sure if the puck would withstand the heat being next to the exhaust manifold.
Here is what mine looked like!!!!

 

[Montclaire]

Just an update - both Prothane and Enegery Suspension list a poly coupler biscuit for a 70s/80s Datsun Z. Neither list bolt spacing that I can tell, and neither could give me an answer after contacting them (nice, right?).

I was able to get an answer from an ebay vendor who told me his original part measured 1 13/16 center to center. Assuming this is correct, the coupler is not far off, but still is not going to fit.

One or both of the poly units has two sets of steel inserts - I don't know if this will allow a larger bolt spacing or not. Anyone want to spend the $15 to find out? The height is the same or nearly the same as the 73 unit.

Someone mentioned (here or elsewhere) that they used a 1" fan spacer but they didn't provide any other details. The issue with the fan spacers is that almost all of them have a "nub" to locate the fan - this may or may not cause interference. Some are also open ended as opposed to closed. I suppose if you could find a closed end one that fit, you could insert a sleeves for the bolts and fill the void with a high temp liquid gasket.