• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1979 Dodge Magnum 360-727 torqueflite squeaking in R,D,2,1

Here is what the filter and pan looked like. I dont see nothing too alarming. The mark on the filter is where I held it up to get the screws out. Replace it with a Wix filter.

IMG_0873.jpeg


IMG_0875.jpeg
 
Here is what the filter and pan looked like. I dont see nothing too alarming. The mark on the filter is where I held it up to get the screws out. Replace it with a Wix filter.

View attachment 1662939

View attachment 1662940
It looks good. I also see that the pan bolts were not overtightened, a good thing. Yes, the starter must be removed to take the cover off. I've known of people who cut the cover so that it can be removed without disturbing the starter.
 
While you have the pan off, drop a couple of short round magnets in there. They will attract any little pieces of metallic contaminent.
 
I dont know if it is an "inspection" cover but there is a cover that is on the bottom of the trans bellhousing. It is not easy as I have to remove the starter to get it off. There are 6 bolts

Another clue, we got in the 50s last night so low 60s in the garage. When I first started it and put it in gear, no noise. When it warmed up about 5 minutes idling, the noise appeared faintly.

Once the car cools down I will continue. Thought it was easier.

View attachment 1662938
See below. The large part is the "dust cover" and the small "trapezoidal-shaped" part is the "inspection plate".

Screenshot_20240514-194435~2.png


Not all, but a lot of, late 70's Torqueflites (904 and 727) had lockup torque converters and they do not have a drain plug. These cars have a one piece cover and no "inspection plate" because the torque converter cannot be drained. The other Torqueflites from the late 1970's probably have the same one piece one-piece cover; and most likely do not have a drain plug in the converter. I have seen non-lockup converters without a drain plug, BUT they have a dimple where one could be drilled and tapped if you're an adventurous person...drill and tap without introducing debris/burrs into the torque converter.
 
While you have the pan off, drop a couple of short round magnets in there. They will attract any little pieces of metallic contaminent.
The bump and the divit are magnetic.
 
See below. The large part is the "dust cover" and the small "trapezoidal-shaped" part is the "inspection plate".

View attachment 1663092

Not all, but a lot of, late 70's Torqueflites (904 and 727) had lockup torque converters and they do not have a drain plug. These cars have a one piece cover and no "inspection plate" because the torque converter cannot be drained. The other Torqueflites from the late 1970's probably have the same one piece one-piece cover; and most likely do not have a drain plug in the converter. I have seen non-lockup converters without a drain plug, BUT they have a dimple where one could be drilled and tapped if you're an adventurous person...drill and tap without introducing debris/burrs into the torque converter.
Mine does not have an inspection cover. It is all one piece.
 
Here are my flexplate tabs and they look fine.

IMG_0900.jpeg


IMG_0901.jpeg


IMG_0902.jpeg


IMG_0904.jpeg
 
It looks good. I also see that the pan bolts were not overtightened, a good thing. Yes, the starter must be removed to take the cover off. I've known of people who cut the cover so that it can be removed without disturbing the starter.
My manual calls for 10ft-lbs. thats what I torque then to
 
It does it in all gears except Park and Neutral

Does it continue to squeal if you're driving down the road and shift the trans from drive to neutral?
 
Does it continue to squeal if you're driving down the road and shift the trans from drive to neutral?
I cant really hear it while driving but sometimes when stopped.
 
I would suggest putting the starter back on without the inspection cover. Start it and see if you notice anything or hear it differently.
I know it's a little more work but the whole transmission may need to come out anyway.
 
but sometimes when stopped.
It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?

Will it squeal in D or N if you raise the engine above idle speed a bit?
 
It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?

Will it squeal in D or N if you raise the engine above idle speed a bit?
Does not squeak in P or N. However, once I go through the gears and back to P or N I hear it slightly and a slight goose of the peddle stops it yes.
 
Last edited:
It sometimes squeals when stopped (foot on brake) when in drive?

Will it squeal in D or N if you raise the engine above idle speed a bit?
What would it mean if increasing rpm made the squeaking stopped in P orN after I had it in gear and it is making the noise slightly?

The manual only talks about whirring, knock, buzz and scraping. I dont know where squeaking fits?

IMG_0877.jpeg


IMG_0885.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I do have an appointment with Aamco next week. They said they can work on my 727 torqueflite. My Dodge dealer can too but Im sure that is a $120 diagnostic fee
 
The normal oil level is about 1/2 inch above the aluminum casting that the tube hole is in.
Keep us up to date on this, I'm intrigued.
I noticed when I had the pan off that the tip of the dipstick stuck about a 1/4" below the bottom of the metal opening. I was like "what's this" but then I realized it was the tip of the dipstick if that helps any.
 
I noticed when I had the pan off that the tip of the dipstick stuck about a 1/4" below the bottom of the metal opening. I was like "what's this" but then I realized it was the tip of the dipstick if that helps any.
This is what it should look like.
DSC02010.JPG
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top