318 poly to 440
- Thread starter lorny
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monaco66coupe
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yes, no problem. That poly is so heavy even the original torsion bars are up to it.
i know because I have one.
i know because I have one.
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You will need the steel engine brackets from the 440 and the rubber insulators from the 318 engine mounts. Bolt the rubber insulators to the 440 brackets and the engine will drop in place on the K frame. You will also need a big block transmission. The 318 transmission has a different bolt pattern. You will also need a radiator meant for a big block or have a rad shop move the lower inlet from the passenger side to the driver side. Alternately, you can use a late model 440 water pump housing that has inlet on passenger side.
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And.... what about all the rest ?
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...and that's not all.....
67MPRFAN
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If your car has power steering you'll need a BB pump, if your car has a 904 transmission factor in New driveshaft, throttle cable might be to short also take a look at BB pulleys extra length for distributor wire and exhaust may not line up. Good luck you'll enjoy it when the transfer is complete
66 Sat
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The poly weighs between 580-600 lbs.
A 440 is 670 lbs.
The factory torsion bars are marginal anyway unless you are an old sea dog and enjoy listing from side to side when cornering.
Allow for some 1.03" torsion bars and a front sway bar when you're doing your budget.
Consider stroking your existing engine too. Won't have to change anything else and will give it some real get up and go.
A 440 is 670 lbs.
The factory torsion bars are marginal anyway unless you are an old sea dog and enjoy listing from side to side when cornering.
Allow for some 1.03" torsion bars and a front sway bar when you're doing your budget.
Consider stroking your existing engine too. Won't have to change anything else and will give it some real get up and go.
monaco66coupe
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That poly is over 600 pounds, and is easily documented. even 70 lbs difference can be compensated greatly by getting an aluminum manifold for that 440.
a 383 with factory A/C weighs the exact same as a 440 non a/c..
also, the bracketry on that old poly weighs more than the same parts on that 440.
my car drove exactly the same after I converted from the poly to the 440.
However, I did have a 70 roadrunner K member, so I went one step further and Installed it along with the factory sway bar. The car is now really tight.
all polys also came with the 727, so the cross member, transmission kickdown linkage, and and driveshaft will fit as well. if you go 440 the biggest decision is do you go pre 70, or 70 up? The 70 up has the bottom outlet on the passenger side.
this sounds minor, but that also means the timing mark is reversed to the other side. so you can't easily match a newer (70 up)water pump housing with an older harmonic balancer. the marks won't jive. Just buy a 22 in radiator that works with whatever year engine you choose to buy.
If you have P.S. now, you simply have to get a pump that works with the correct engine year brackets you aquire. That stuff is all obtainable, the main thing is that engine will bolt into that car. Your present radiator is of no value, as the bottom outlet is also too small of an outlet for the 440 housing.
as far as handling, that car rolled around corners with the Poly, and will also do so with any engine in it. A sway bar is necessary no matter if you did nothing at all.
I would not let any of this discourage you, it is a good idea to do it, and many guys here have plenty of parts to help you switch it over.
the good thing it is a 66 model, so most everything is Interchangeable with 67-69 models.
a 383 with factory A/C weighs the exact same as a 440 non a/c..
also, the bracketry on that old poly weighs more than the same parts on that 440.
my car drove exactly the same after I converted from the poly to the 440.
However, I did have a 70 roadrunner K member, so I went one step further and Installed it along with the factory sway bar. The car is now really tight.
all polys also came with the 727, so the cross member, transmission kickdown linkage, and and driveshaft will fit as well. if you go 440 the biggest decision is do you go pre 70, or 70 up? The 70 up has the bottom outlet on the passenger side.
this sounds minor, but that also means the timing mark is reversed to the other side. so you can't easily match a newer (70 up)water pump housing with an older harmonic balancer. the marks won't jive. Just buy a 22 in radiator that works with whatever year engine you choose to buy.
If you have P.S. now, you simply have to get a pump that works with the correct engine year brackets you aquire. That stuff is all obtainable, the main thing is that engine will bolt into that car. Your present radiator is of no value, as the bottom outlet is also too small of an outlet for the 440 housing.
as far as handling, that car rolled around corners with the Poly, and will also do so with any engine in it. A sway bar is necessary no matter if you did nothing at all.
I would not let any of this discourage you, it is a good idea to do it, and many guys here have plenty of parts to help you switch it over.
the good thing it is a 66 model, so most everything is Interchangeable with 67-69 models.
lorny
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its a 1975 440 out of a titon motor home complete with wires-rad- trans-p/s pump ...
lorny
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and im old school i like rolling around corners and floating along
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Most '66 Charger's came with a front sway bar. It would bolt right into your '66 Coronet. 1967 and newer are different.
66 Sat
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Hughes Engines website lists the Poly at 600 lbs (estimate).
In my Brooklands Book for the Chrysler Small Block, one article on the 273 when it was first released says a 40 lbs saving on the block and 12 lbs on the heads. Another article says 55 lbs saving overall.
Take the higher weight of 55 lbs plus the 525 lbs listing for the 273-340 = 580 lbs.
An aluminum manifold can also be used on the poly (e.g. Weiand 7503, Chrysler Windtunnel etc) although I accept there aren't as many choices.
You're in the 440 camp which is fine - I was just giving the OP a choice, as a poly stroker can give him plenty of power and torque. It all depends on his intentions for the car. If he wants 500+ hp then go 440. If he's looking for 400 hp, 400 lbs/ft then a stroker may be a cheaper/easier way to go.
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monaco66coupe
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it sounds like you have everything, except a 22 inch radiator for a HP big block. I haven't seen a 66 sway bar, that is just something to deal with later. rolling around isn't so bad, what is the hurry anyway?
My 69 coronet 383 has nearly every option available, but no bar. it rolls around, but it looks great!Lol
monaco66coupe
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we are saying pretty much the same thing, we all want to give the guy choices.
I actually don"t care for 440's.I know how it goes, and have several. but my favorites are 383's. good power, good mileage, fast revving. less weight overall.
and my favorite car after driving mopars since 1968 is my 68 Charger with the 318 automatic. I had a family and drove that car every day, and across country several times. 1985-2001. I would trade any muscle car I ownand trade if i could only find out where it went.
ckessel
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I happen to have a NIB mount package from 440 source. Brackets, mounts, bolts that covers 66-72 b&e body to put a b or rb in when you have a v-8 k frame. $150.00 plus shipping from 93402. No PayPal accepted. USPS money order.
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