66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
You're most likely correct. Just be careful getting that tap started straight.
Thanks guys. Wish me luck, will give an update later in the dayYou're most likely correct. Just be careful getting that tap started straight.
If you've already ordered a pickup tube I'd just wait for it.... I'd also probably run the tap in a little deeper... Pipe taps being tapered will thread in a few turns before they get to the diameter you want & when you hit that point the torque will go way up... Just stop when the torque goes up...
the threads are factory 3/8" STRAIGHT pipe thread. not the common hardware store pipe thread. the thread pitch is the same between straight and taper.
the threads are factory 3/8" STRAIGHT pipe thread. not the common hardware store pipe thread. the thread pitch is the same between straight and taper.
Lew, is the block a straight thread too? When I tap for the 1/2", I use the straight tap in the block. I guess I could go check, but I don't think I have a 3/8 straight pipe tap.
it's all straight pipe thread; pick-up and block. when i sent you stuff to do your block there should have been a straight pipe thread tap included. straight pipe thread is used in machinery and taper for plumbing or other types of building applications. i got schooled on this years back by a person who built and repaired industrial machines. a taper pipe will screw into a straight pipe because the thread pitch is the same but thread contact will be different.Lew, is the block a straight thread too? When I tap for the 1/2", I use the straight tap in the block. I guess I could go check, but I don't think I have a 3/8 straight pipe tap.
the taper on straight thread is noticeably less than taper.Wouldn't the only difference be you'd have to cut deeper if they're both straight? It would make sense that the bite I am getting on the tap is about from the 3/4 mark and up. The taper is getting bigger and engaging with the straight pipe threads. Although, if you think about it, depending on how deep you tap that hole and the original angle they used in that tap, that oil hole could be like, half straight, and half tapered. The deeper you cut, the further down it pushes the taper.
it's all straight pipe thread; pick-up and block. when i sent you stuff to do your block there should have been a straight pipe thread tap included. straight pipe thread is used in machinery and taper for plumbing or other types of building applications. i got schooled on this years back by a person who built and repaired industrial machines. a taper pipe will screw into a straight pipe because the thread pitch is the same but thread contact will be different.
the thread count per inch is the same. the straight pipe thread has noticeably larger lead end threads than taper so it would be easy to start taper threaded pipe in a straight thread hole. i was out in the garage looking at taps, 1/2" straight vs taper, and thought about taking a picture but wasn't sure the resolution on my ancient phone would easily show the difference. this whole thing can be played with a little due to identical thread pitch but my conclusion was don't put a straight thread in a taper hole. maybe use a taper in a straight hole if you have a good thread count past the tapered threads. i tried to measure the taps i have with a digital caliper and didn't get exact numbers but did come to the conclusion that there may be as much as .040" taper difference in thread diameter between the two.Right.
Of course, the pick-up is easy to verify as straight thread with a simple root thread measurements compaired to the NPT and NPS specs. I don't have the tools to measure the block. But, the way the NPT tap threads-up into the block suggests that the block might be tapered.
......it's all straight pipe thread; pick-up and block.
Yep. Just pulled out a block and checked. It's straight thread too.