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383 street cam help

did you notice that you can get more duration @200 and more lift from a MOPAR 262 cam (even Jones 256 hyd cam) than from a 280H
The old school 280 H was designed for a high compression engine

what happened lewtot?
I've run more action than that- even 1.75 Iron and roller tip rockers
 
I noticed from forum writings that often guys complain about a loud valve train. While that doesn’t bother me on one car, it would on another car. Depends on what I’m doing and with what. When I’m rippin a 1/4 at W.O.T., I’m not so concerned. In the cruiser, I don’t wanna year it.
tappet clatter with a fast ramp hydraulic cam is the short closing ramp. I think the tappet actually looses contact from the lobe momentarily. more spring might cure it but that would probably kill the internals of the tappet. my take is; if you want mech cam performance buy a mech cam. why turn a purse into a sows ear?
 
Good point
ASymetrical lobe is necessary I see on the comp lobe master list
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Catalogs/CamLobeMasterCatalog.pdf
that intensities are listed (here for the 275 HL MI 23.1 (11.2/11.9) so look for a larger closing MI- longer ramp
a .842 grind with the same intensity has to be working a lot harder
but not why I posted
http://www.horsepowermonster.com/2013/secrets-to-dialing-in-a-mopar-valvetrain/ is a good read but absolutely wrong about the center the rocker on the valvestem advice-
try and do that by adjusting the rockers and the geometry gets all screwed up
actually it does not matter much where the center of the contact patch is as long as it is not off the edge of the valve
you have to change the rockers or move the shafts to center the patch on a shaft system
what you want is the NARROWEST patch possible- which you get with the mid lift method described above- get the rocker centerline tangent to the valve stem at half lift
easy to do with stud rockers- takes more time and shims with shafts
but your valve stems and guides will thank you not to mention your valve action
 
I'm not a moderator but...
Just a reminder we were originally trying to help Pat select a good street cam for a mild 383.
 

Comp XE262.

why do you guys recommend chevy cams for MOPAR's?

Every time I hear someone say that, I feel sorry for them for buying into advertising. The MP cams made good power, but their quality control really sucks, and for the most part you have to play with the installed centerline to get them to really work. Their old designs. Cams design to make a sound don't make power. Period. Anyone can run what they want, believe what they want. The OP asked for a good cam choice - I've run my recommendation in many engines big and small, and it works for minimal investment, and minimal other support stuff or additional machining.
 
Buying into advertising? low blow
we had an in house dyno
we helped develop the step head KB pistons
shorter duration cams work I hate do give up 20+ foot lbs at 2500
you want an inexpensive cam that works see the Elgin catalog, Wolverine, etc- no reason to pay for advertising
you want one that really works then it costs some money- either custom or one of the few choices out there shelf ready
MP cams- quality depends on the era but for that kind of cam I used Engle IDK how they are doing now I did not think MP cams were enough bang for the bucks
"Cams design to make a sound don't make power. Period." you got that righ
but the 280H or isky Megacam- he might as well run the Magnum cam 4 degrees advanced- 50 year old designes
You want the latest technology call Mike Jones
 
I'm going to be running a Mr.6Pack camshaft in my 383...

http://sixpacksixbbl.homestead.com/mrsixpackHOF.html

http://sixpacksixbbl.homestead.com/mrsixpack.html

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1304-mopars-romp-and-stomp-at-michigan-motorplex/

mrsixpack45.jpg
 
I'm using it in my 451 stroker, in a 383 will be a very good choice...

Cool! From everything I read it is a strong performer with 440+ cubes and with mild street manners. I won’t mind if it has a little extra lope in the 383.
 
Cool! From everything I read it is a strong performer with 440+ cubes and with mild street manners. I won’t mind if it has a little extra lope in the 383.
You won't regret it believe me!
 
Im surprised I haven’t seen anyone mention the .528 Mopar Performance solid-lifter camshaft.

Andy Finkbeiner conducted quite a lot of testing (AndyF), found this is the ‘magical grind’ to run with exhaust manifolds on his low-deck test mule and could not replicate the same results with other modern camshafts. It has a slow ramp-rate and will be easy on the valvetrain. Pair this with a used set of Isky/Crane ductile iron rockers and it would be a nice combination. I used one in my 440, it was probably the best 'street car' camshaft I've ever ran.

Article:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/550hp.html

You're probably going to need some new pushrods as well, please don't buy them off-the-shelf:
http://www.stewardperformance.com/pushrods.html
 
Last edited:
Engle Hyd cams Sorted by duration Seat timing @.008
LIFT Duration
NUMBER 1.6 1.5 Cam .008" .050".200" lift

K-52HYD .489" .458" .305" 254° 209°

K-54HYD .501" .470" .313" 260° 214° 127°

K-56HYD .538" .504" .336" 268° 224° 140°

K-58HYD .549" .514" .343" 276° 230° 148°

KV-2HYD .573" .537" .358" 278° 230° 144°

KV-3HYD .573" .537" .358" 284° 235° 150°

K-60HYD .570" .534" .356" 285° 238° 152°

K-7HYD .552” .517” .345” 288 236

KV-4HYD .589" .552" .368" 288° 242° 156°

K-62HYD .575" .539" .359" 294° 244° 156°

KV-5HYD .602 .564" .376" 294° 246° 162°

K8-HYD .587” .550” .367” 296 249

K-64HYD .594" .557" .371" 298° 249° 162°

KV-6HYD .615" .576" .384" 298° 251° 168°

KV-7HYD .630" .591" .394" 308° 256° 174°

K-nHYD (K-7HYD and K-8HYD are the older series (no 200 shown) KV and K-nnHyd are newer -like 2001

I can remember running K6

These are easy on the valve-train grinds

IDK how the new guys at Engle are doing
 
the engle k56 intake/k58 exhaust is a good combo. the bob k cams used to be engle's.
 
Engle Hyd cams Sorted by duration Seat timing @.008
LIFT Duration
NUMBER 1.6 1.5 Cam .008" .050".200" lift

K-52HYD .489" .458" .305" 254° 209°

K-54HYD .501" .470" .313" 260° 214° 127°

K-56HYD .538" .504" .336" 268° 224° 140°

K-58HYD .549" .514" .343" 276° 230° 148°

KV-2HYD .573" .537" .358" 278° 230° 144°

KV-3HYD .573" .537" .358" 284° 235° 150°

K-60HYD .570" .534" .356" 285° 238° 152°

K-7HYD .552” .517” .345” 288 236

KV-4HYD .589" .552" .368" 288° 242° 156°

K-62HYD .575" .539" .359" 294° 244° 156°

KV-5HYD .602 .564" .376" 294° 246° 162°

K8-HYD .587” .550” .367” 296 249

K-64HYD .594" .557" .371" 298° 249° 162°

KV-6HYD .615" .576" .384" 298° 251° 168°

KV-7HYD .630" .591" .394" 308° 256° 174°

K-nHYD (K-7HYD and K-8HYD are the older series (no 200 shown) KV and K-nnHyd are newer -like 2001

I can remember running K6

These are easy on the valve-train grinds

IDK how the new guys at Engle are doing
 

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the engle k56 intake/k58 exhaust is a good combo. the bob k cams used to be engle's.

My Bob K cam was ground by Engle with Bob K' s specs. Don't know if Bob K changed vendors since 2008 when I bought mine?
 
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