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383???

delfinomuro

Well-Known Member
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Houston,Tx
Hey guys, I been doing a lot of thinking lately. And getting ready to start the build on my 383. But I'm having second thoughts. I'm starting to feel it's not a 383 from a 66 fury, which is what the guy says it came off of. Here's the number that's on the block. I checked it once and it shows it is a 383 BB but I think i mis-understood. Can somebody please help me on the info of this motor.

image.jpg
 
It's a 383 ... date code to the left of the casting number? ... what is stamped on the flat pad below the distributor? ... perhaps a vin along the oil pan rail too. All that info will help ID your motor.
 
Checked out the website, according to it. It's a 383 B.
But what about that last number(7)? Any idea on hp?


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I'll check it out when I get home from work. Then you let you know.

It's a 383 ... date code to the left of the casting number? ... what is stamped on the flat pad below the distributor? ... perhaps a vin along the oil pan rail too. All that info will help ID your motor.
 
look on the pad under the distributer. If it is a 66 there will be B next to the 383,C for 67,etc. Also, The calendar date in your picture will at least give you the month and year it was cast.
 
Don't know if this is true or not but always heard that the -# (7) stood for how many times the mold was used.
 
That could be, the first year for the casting number is 1959, thru 1971
 
I don't see what the dilemma is. But, then again, I am not a 'paint stamp', 'date code' kind of guy. I have a 440 in my 65 Fury and I am happy to tell people not only that it isn't the original motor, but that 440 wasn't around in 65. If it is a good motor, rebuild it and have fun with it.
 
What exactly you mean by the amount of times it was mold?

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I'll take more photos when I get home from work.
 
In simple terms, the more times a mold is used, the more it differs from the original. Repeated heating and cooling cycles cause the mold to change and eventually it will be out of tolerance. This is why dies and other mold materials need periodic reworking/rebuilding to bring them back into tolerance.

So a low number means the block was closer to the "as designed" spec while a high number would be near the tolerance limits.
 
I see, so it ranges from 1-??

In simple terms, the more times a mold is used, the more it differs from the original. Repeated heating and cooling cycles cause the mold to change and eventually it will be out of tolerance. This is why dies and other mold materials need periodic reworking/rebuilding to bring them back into tolerance.

So a low number means the block was closer to the "as designed" spec while a high number would be near the tolerance limits.
 
Ok guys so I checked under the distributor, and the only numbers I see is:
F 383
I 5
R

And that's it
Here's the dateimage.jpg

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12•6•69
 
1970 engine. 12-3-69 is the cast date. 1 5 could be a assy date of jan 5. I see R sometimes referring to regular gas. That's what it is!
 
That is still a good engine. I wouldn't worry about it. The pistons are for an open chambered 906, so you can do a lot of things if you choose to. Whereabouts in Houston are you from?
 
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