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413 & to much time on my hands.

hacksaw

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ok ... o been getting things together for Carlisle and have found more stuff than i rememberd even having laying around. (no 400 blocks tho)
looking at stuff i got an idea of putting a 413 crank i got in a 383 block. i have been looking and found that diamond makes slugs for this using 440 rods.
having stock rods redone on the small end for the 0.990 pin ain't cheap but
440 source makes a 400 buck set of I bean forged BB rods with the 0.990 pin so money will make that choice.
and turning the counter weights to a 7.2-ish and the mains to 2.625 will make it fit in the block without smacking the cam or sides and be lighter by a bunch
with the math being done and free parts other than the shop work..... has anyone done this?? .... is it worth it?
 
You should cut those crazy flaps off the crank while you're at it.
 
Sure seems like extra work, and $$$, to end up with something smaller than a 440.
 
it will be about 438. but boy does that thing rev. a buddy has 1 and it runs 6.21 in 1/8 mile.
 
Sure seems like extra work, and $$$, to end up with something smaller than a 440.
not anymore than what we did back in the day to put a 440 crank in a 400 (before kits). ya im that old. the advantage would be a light rotating mass and good rpm. it would be something like a 430-ish under square mill depending on overbore. it should have good grunt down low. strange to think of stuff like this with kits for just about anything now but thats how we did it on the cheap way back when.... lol
 
it will be about 438. but boy does that thing rev. a buddy has 1 and it runs 6.21 in 1/8 mile.
If they were built equally with quality parts, I think a 400 would out rev it. Shorter stroke than a 350 Chev. Shorter stroke = more revs. Longer stroke = more torque.
 
Years ago, drag racers used to put 413 cranks in 383 blocks to get 426 c.i. 426 and 383 had same 4.25" bore. It was a lot more work than just changing crankshafts, though. Pistons, rods, bearing sizes, etc.
 
not anymore than what we did back in the day to put a 440 crank in a 400 (before kits). ya im that old. the advantage would be a light rotating mass and good rpm. it would be something like a 430-ish under square mill depending on overbore. it should have good grunt down low. strange to think of stuff like this with kits for just about anything now but thats how we did it on the cheap way back when.... lol
I'd think that if you put a 440 crank into a 400 block, which has a wider bore than a 440, you'd end up with an engine bigger than a 440. IIRC, a .030 overbore gets you a 451 with this combo.
 
I'd think that if you put a 440 crank into a 400 block, which has a wider bore than a 440, you'd end up with an engine bigger than a 440. IIRC, a .030 overbore gets you a 451 with this combo.
yup .. that was the point of it.....
 
I put a 383 crank in a 383 block, beat all that stuff lol.
 
yup .. that was the point of it.....
Sorry, your post had confused me when you said you ended up with a "430-ish undersquare mill", I thought you were hinting that the engine size was less than a 440. How did the 440 crank end up being a "light rotating mass" compared to the stock 400?
 
I did similar but I used the 383 rods. If I had to do it again.....I would do it exactly the same way. Never liked the excessive rod/stoke ratio of the 440 rods.
From memory, I had to remove about 1/8" from the counterweights for piston clearance, but the HUGE benefit from this along with the shorter rod ratio was a lighter crank that spun up quickly.
 
Sorry, your post had confused me when you said you ended up with a "430-ish undersquare mill", I thought you were hinting that the engine size was less than a 440. How did the 440 crank end up being a "light rotating mass" compared to the stock 400?
under square refers to the bore is smaller than the stroke... and i was refering to the 413 in the 383 block... the 440crank in a 400 block would be over square. if i remember rite.
 
383 bore is 4.25, 413 stroke is 3.75 so still over square. :) 413 and 440 have the same stroke.
 
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