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440 engine Horsepower?

68 plymouth

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I came across a 440 that someone is selling and he said that he had it dynoed in his car at 320 HP, so I'm assuming 375 or so at the crank? Are these good horsepower ratings for a stock 440?

He said its stock bore, a 73 or 78 block, its been rebuilt and he has paperwork on the headwork that's been done.. He isn't sure what heads are on it. He isn't sure if its cast iron or steel cranks..

Does it sound like a good engine?
 
It's a 440, so of course it's a good engine (I may be a bit prejudiced though)

I guess it all depends on how much he wants for it, what condition it's actually in, and what you intend to use it for. Unless you are planning for a 600+ horsepower race motor, there is nothing wrong with a cast crank. Just make sure that you use a harmonic balancer and torque converter (automatic) or flywheel (manual) balanced for a cast crank (externally balanced engine.)
 
hes asking 2000 obo, I want a daily driver outta this engine...

Is 2000 a good price? or is it a bit much. He said the engine wasnt used much from the previous owner, and that he never even got a chance to use it...

Im going to be looking at it later today, he said its a 73-78 non motorhome engine. I dont know too much about these engines and have been doing as much research as I can on them.. I know motorhome engines have low compression and I wanted to know what to look for today when I go see the motor myself?
 
Seems a little high on the price to me but if it's built right with some nice parts it could be a different story. Problem is you may not know what's really in there. Or how much it has really been used.

If you look around you could find a freshly built mild 440 for under $2500 that has a nice cam, rebuilt heads and all that good stuff. That's about what I paid for mine.
 
Here's the description for it..

Mopar, Mopar Mopar!! I have here a running 440 that we took out of a 64 Dodge Polara,

I was gonna use it on my 66 charger but went a different route. 440 Mopar big block, mopar valve covers, ARP bolts, ARP head bolts, Edelbrock performer intake, Mopar 8mm high spark

(blue spark plug wires) Mopar electronic dist with orange hot box, Holley high volume fuel pump(mechanical) head work

with the paper work on the work that was done,nice cam and lifters. I bought this engine from the Mopar knights car club in Orange county. this engine is ready to be installed in your car/truck/mopar!
 
Here's the description for it..

Mopar, Mopar Mopar!! I have here a running 440 that we took out of a 64 Dodge Polara,

I was gonna use it on my 66 charger but went a different route. 440 Mopar big block, mopar valve covers, ARP bolts, ARP head bolts, Edelbrock performer intake, Mopar 8mm high spark

(blue spark plug wires) Mopar electronic dist with orange hot box, Holley high volume fuel pump(mechanical) head work

with the paper work on the work that was done,nice cam and lifters. I bought this engine from the Mopar knights car club in Orange county. this engine is ready to be installed in your car/truck/mopar!

Maybe try and contact the MoPar knights club and see if anybody there remembers it? :edgy: it seems to have a few of the right parts...i'm assuming it runs????
 
Yes it runs, its ready to be dropped in and used he said. I guess ill have to take the valve covors off and see what heads are on it.

And ill get the numbers off the block too.

Anything else I should look for?
 
Hopefully this doesn't happen to you, but I recently bought a 69 440 for $2500. Tested in car before I bought it, ran great, good compression. Decided to pull the heads after I bought it and cyllinders were scored. Ultimately found cam bearing damaged and I'm starting over from scratch. A lot can happen in 35 years.
 
Yeah 2 gs sounds high after hearing your guys opinions...

Its or best offer, but I only have like 500 and he said I can do like a lay away...

I guess ill hold off of it and just save my money..
 
Yeah, save your money and build one yourself. At least then you will know exactly what you have when you are done and it will be new. 2000 is a lot to spend and gamble that you didn't just buy someone else's problem.
 
You know what, I remember that engine for sale a while ago on LA craigslist... the Mopar Knights thing made me recall it. It was for sale when I bought my 440, that was around January I think.
 
Yeah, save your money and build one yourself. At least then you will know exactly what you have when you are done and it will be new. 2000 is a lot to spend and gamble that you didn't just buy someone else's problem.



Id love to build my own, But i've never put an engine together.

Here's the link for the other engine:

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1704776816.html

Im supposed to look at it around 6 or 7 tonight...

what would you guys offer this guy on it? maybe ill make him an offer and see if he takes it...
 
I'd say offer him $ 1200.00 or its not really worth the risk . Make sure you get him to turn it over by hand with a bar ,making sure it turns over smoothly with no stops or stuck areas . Get all the reciepts for sure .

From the balancer looks to possible be a forged crank . If cast crank it would have a bigger balancer to externally balance the motor.
 
Is that the only way externally to tell if it is cast or steel crank?

Also if it turns out to be a steel crank would that warrant a 2000 dollar price tag or not?
 
The harmonic damper should say "FOR USE WITH CAST CRANK" unless it was the wrong balancer he installed. My old '77 truck engine said that.

I traded it for a '71 out of a imperial, I had the guy swap the 912 heads for 906 and put in the 178 intake. I got all Mopar and Clevite 77 guts in it and it has a 10.5 comp ratio, over bored .020 and a traded a 3-groove crank pulley for a 4 all for $2500

Craig Mosier out of Mansfield, OH if you are interested.
 
Id love to build my own, But i've never put an engine together.
QUOTE]

Neither had I before I did my first one. IMO you would be better off building one yourself or having one built for you. Hire a reputable engine builder or get a buddy who has done it before to help you if you are not comfortable doing it on your own. The actual mechanics of the build are not complicated. Most critical is cleanliness and use of proper lube for assembly of moving parts (and a good machine shop.)
 
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