440 engine parts/ Rebuild kits

[BLK 68 R/T]

1.696 compression height

didn't dig deep, but it looked like Summit was the same price for a kit, probably with taller pistons.

I bought a master kit from Northern lunch, and it was all namebrand parts and made a great run in motor. They were a lot cheaper than the other vendors at that time

1.969 compression height? 1.696 would put them way way down. Even at 1.969 with a stock block they are what I consider way down, .100 +.

Pistons and getting proper quench + cam selection are the 2 most important things to get right when building an engine.

Just my opinion, of course…

 

[Mo Schouvillier]

Rock Auto has been my go-to for the past several years for stock parts. You get to see all of the brands that are available and cherry pick what you want. If I was building a 440 even for a restoration I would be tempted to do some hidden "upgrades" to make it run a little better than they did stock. I'd fit some KB step dome pistons and a modern grind cam, probably a hydraulic roller. More power, better detonation resistance, better gas mileage, no downsides really. And probably less than $1k more than building it "stock."

I hear what you're saying, but for what it is, I'd be foolish to change things up for a few reasons:
1. Out of the 874 that were built for the states, with the options there were 3 built alike, and according to the bean counters, mine is the only one known to still exist. (This includes Dave W.)
2. I know I can't get OEM pistons, not concerned about that, but flat tops like it had with the stock 906 heads. This car is not going to be driven very much and not racing anyone.
3. I am using a Howards cam that will perform better than stock and will sound just a tad bit better at idle.
I did see Mancini has a kit for $699, and would think they would have pretty decent stuff- Calling them tomorrow

 

[Mo Schouvillier]

440 source or Rock Auto.

store.440source.com
RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need

Alot of these places don't seem to have a package deal or kit, you have to but everything separate. Rock was about $1200 for the internals, and $600 for valves and such.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Alot of these places don't seem to have a package deal or kit, you have to but everything separate. Rock was about $1200 for the internals, and $600 for valves and such.

Call 440 source. They will put together a complete package for you based on what you want.

 

[451Mopar]

I would talk to your machine shop. Let them know what you want from the engine.
My Cylinder head guy has given me better prices on valves and springs than I can get trying to buy retail.

Usually if I am getting several different parts I use Summit Racing for the free shipping with orders over $100?
I often also get parts from 440 Source and Hughes Engines, they charge for shipping, but usually it is reasonable.
Sometimes I get parts from Rock Auto, but their shipping is usually expensive on multiple items never ship from the same warehouse?

I haven't looked at what stock type "kits" that are out there in a long time.
I never try building the cheapest / budget engine, but usually trend towards the best value or best bang for the buck.
This leads me to look at newer piston designs that are lighter than stock and use thinner ring packs like the Mahle power pak piston and ring kits.
This is good performance wise, but drives up cost for the parts and re-balancing of the crank.

If cost is an issue, the machine shop might be able to get replacement cast pistons that weigh about the same as your stock pistons and not have to balance the crank.

 

[Mo Schouvillier]

Call 440 source. They will put together a complete package for you based on what you want.

That's a great idea! That's why I posted here!

 

[Mo Schouvillier]

I would talk to your machine shop. Let them know what you want from the engine.
My Cylinder head guy has given me better prices on valves and springs than I can get trying to buy retail.

I will, dropping it off today

Usually if I am getting several different parts I use Summit Racing for the free shipping with orders over $100?
I often also get parts from 440 Source and Hughes Engines, they charge for shipping, but usually it is reasonable.
Sometimes I get parts from Rock Auto, but their shipping is usually expensive on multiple items never ship from the same warehouse?

Noted

I haven't looked at what stock type "kits" that are out there in a long time.
I never try building the cheapest / budget engine, but usually trend towards the best value or best bang for the buck.
This leads me to look at newer piston designs that are lighter than stock and use thinner ring packs like the Mahle power pak piston and ring kits.
This is good performance wise, but drives up cost for the parts and re-balancing of the crank.

If cost is an issue, the machine shop might be able to get replacement cast pistons that weigh about the same as your stock pistons and not have to balance the crank.

Cost is not a factor, just no reason to improve from the stock configuration. I want it to be as close to what came in it as possible. Sadly, when I was 18 and bought the car, the original 440 was out of it, and I could of had it along with the car. In 75', we used to call them "PIG BLOCKS"-Small blocks were the thing in my circles. If I knew then what I know now, especially the value, I would have taken it. I have been lucky enough to source the perfect "date correct" complete engine, so much so they could have grabbed it at the plant.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

I hear what you're saying, but for what it is, I'd be foolish to change things up for a few reasons:
1. Out of the 874 that were built for the states, with the options there were 3 built alike, and according to the bean counters, mine is the only one known to still exist. (This includes Dave W.) Doesn’t matter how many were made all 68 GTXs had the same super commando 440 engine, piston choice is critical. Hemi was the only other option.
2. I know I can't get OEM pistons, not concerned about that, but flat tops like it had with the stock 906 heads. This car is not going to be driven very much and not racing anyone. See #1. And also it will run worse than stock if you don’t do the bottom end right.
3. I am using a Howards cam that will perform better than stock and will sound just a tad bit better at idle. Bigger cams will only compound the issue with an incorrect piston choice and cam.
I did see Mancini has a kit for $699, and would think they would have pretty decent stuff- Calling them tomorrow

 

[ckessel]

If you've chosen a shop to do the machining, ask them about you supplying the parts. Some may be ok with that, others not. It's like you taking a steak to a restaurant to have them cook it for you. Part of their profits made come from supplying the parts and if they supply them, you'll most likely get a better guarantee of quality work.