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440 engine ping question

With electromic ignition, what should the gap on the spark plugs be set at for street driving ??
 
I run the same factory recommended plug and gap in mine. Shouldn't make a difference over the point system. Just a better more accurate spark.
 
I was told to gap bigger for electronic ignition ???
 
It's been awhile, but kinda recall points plugs gap .035, electronic around .045.
Should be in the service manual, for either type.
 
My plugs are gaped at .035 (with electronic ignition). Of coarse that doesn't necessarily mean it is correct.
 
Pinging with 110 leaded fuel is a big problem and very hard on the engine. I would start by giving it 10-12 degrees of initial timing (set by turning the distributor) and adjusting the mechanical advance slots to give a total of 34 degree max for pump gas, 36 max for 110 or pump/110 mix. If you need help with the distributor setup we can walk you though it. Too much timing with hurt the engine and it's something that should be verified immediately.

Another thought is carbon build up on the pistons. If the car has low miles and has been started and idled on the choke a lot it might benefit from a nice dose of sea foam down the carb. Your neighbors will love you too!
 
Jeremiah said:
Another thought is carbon build up on the pistons. If the car has low miles and has been started and idled on the choke a lot it might benefit from a nice dose of sea foam down the carb. Your neighbors will love you too!
Click to expand...
That is exactly why I asked the question in post #10.

If that's the case, there is no need for snake oils like SeaFoam (Naptha, Isopropyl Alcohol & Pale Oil). That crap will just foul your plugs. A glass of water with the vacuum hose run from the carb base run into it with the RPM brought up to 2000 RPM or so will do a nice job of decarbonizing the cylinders without fogging the neighborhood.
 
Ranger16 said:
That is exactly why I asked the question in post #10.

If that's the case, there is no need for snake oils like SeaFoam (Naptha, Isopropyl Alcohol & Pale Oil). That crap will just foul your plugs. A glass of water with the vacuum hose run from the carb base run into it with the RPM brought up to 2000 RPM or so will do a nice job of decarbonizing the cylinders without fogging the neighborhood.
Click to expand...

I'm
Ranger16 said:
That is exactly why I asked the question in post #10.

If that's the case, there is no need for snake oils like SeaFoam (Naptha, Isopropyl Alcohol & Pale Oil). That crap will just foul your plugs. A glass of water with the vacuum hose run from the carb base run into it with the RPM brought up to 2000 RPM or so will do a nice job of decarbonizing the cylinders without fogging the neighborhood.
Click to expand...

I have not had issues fouling the plugs with seafoam. I'll have to keep an eye out for that. My neighbors live for a good sea-foaming on a hot summer eve lol.
 
I agree with setting initial advance at around 10 degrees, and total at 36 to 38. Then your engine will run great, provided the fuel has enough octane.
 
My 440 6 pack runs great with 20 initial and 38 total, 906 heads, but it has a longer than stock duration mechanical cam. A longer duration cam will help some by lowering cyl pressure at lower RPMs.
 
I'd like to think I can de-carbon piston tops and comb chambers with water.

I've got a very pingy 2013 ex police Charger 345.
Lots of idling hours.
 
Jeremiah said:
Pinging with 110 leaded fuel is a big problem and very hard on the engine. I would start by giving it 10-12 degrees of initial timing (set by turning the distributor) and adjusting the mechanical advance slots to give a total of 34 degree max for pump gas, 36 max for 110 or pump/110 mix. If you need help with the distributor setup we can walk you though it. Too much timing with hurt the engine and it's something that should be verified immediately.

Another thought is carbon build up on the pistons. If the car has low miles and has been started and idled on the choke a lot it might benefit from a nice dose of sea foam down the carb. Your neighbors will love you too!
Click to expand...

How do i adjust the mechanical advance of the Mopar electronic distributor.

Chuck
 
There is a place that makes Mechanical advance limiter plates. Pull the dist, then remove the reluctor and pick up. Then you take the clip out of the center on the top shaft, lift the rotor mount off of the main distributor shaft. This also is the piece with the slots in it. Then you drop the limiter plate in place, using the slots with the desired amount of mechanical advance. It has slots that will limit it to 12, 14, 16 or 18 degrees of advance. You usually want 38 degrees of total advance. So with the 18 degree slots aligned, you would start with 20 degrees initial. Then the other 18 would come in mechanically for a total of 38. Maybe someone here knows where to get them. I found the link to the guy who makes them here on a thread about distributors or advance curves.
 
I need to change mine to 16 degrees mech advance, as my motor wants still more initial timing. So my initial advance would be 22 degrees. Plus 16 mech advance for a total of 38.
 
Garys1969RR said:
There is a place that makes Mechanical advance limiter plates. Pull the dist, then remove the reluctor and pick up. Then you take the clip out of the center on the top shaft, lift the rotor mount off of the main distributor shaft. This also is the piece with the slots in it. Then you drop the limiter plate in place, using the slots with the desired amount of mechanical advance. It has slots that will limit it to 12, 14, 16 or 18 degrees of advance. You usually want 38 degrees of total advance. So with the 18 degree slots aligned, you would start with 20 degrees initial. Then the other 18 would come in mechanically for a total of 38. Maybe someone here knows where to get them. I found the link to the guy who makes them here on a thread about distributors or advance curves.
Click to expand...
FBO has them. I noticed with their plate it puts a bit of preload on the springs and delays the advance. You may need to experiment with differant springs. Setting up a distributor can be tedious and time consuming. But has a huge effect on how an engine runs.
 
The later Mopar electronic distributors have an allen screw that limits each advance counterweight that can be accessed without taking the distributor apart. Can you shoot a picture of the inside of the distributor?

I think 38 degrees total advance might be a bit much for folks running pump gas closer to sea level. I'd start with 34 and sneak up on it. For instance, my new engine only liked 32 degrees total advance for maximum power. If you run too much timing it could very easily damage the engine bearings and/or pistons if you really lean on it with today's poor fuel. A few degrees less won't really hurt anything on a street car.
 
Ranger stole my thoughts!! Get a styrofoam cup half full & dribble water in to primaries at 2000rpm or more. Used to do it all the time on engines way back when. It's cheap and easy to do before spending money.Just don't stall out the motor
 
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